Grand Traverse Bay
Most of the last week
has found us visiting several towns on the western leg of Grand Traverse Bay –
Northport, Suttons Bay and Traverse City. Sadly many cruisers on the loop pass
this area on their rush south, so we were not entirely sure what to
expect. Our stops were suggested by
Michiganites who cruise this area regularly and their advice has been golden. We hopped over from Lake Charlevoix to drop
the hook in front of Northport just off Lake Michigan at the mouth of Grand
Traverse Bay. The winds blew in a storm which
rocked the boat, but did not stop our trip to town. Between showers we walked the streets of
Northport and found a great used bookstore as well as art galleries, a history
museum and a rock store. People were friendly and helpful – the Visitor Center
lady wanted to give us an umbrella so we wouldn’t get wet on the way back to
the boat! In the history museum we learned that we were anchored in front of former
location of the turn of the century luxury hotel– it burned in 1908. The house
next door is still there although it looks like a few wings have been added. (The lady in the museum also offered her personal washer/dryer when we asked for a Laundromat!)Suttons
Bay was similar in size to Northport, but much busier and more colorful. The
shops are mostly in repurposed houses – many painted in wild colors. Traverse
City itself proved to be a hidden gem.
Friends who are in the know said it was worth the trip, but we were
unprepared for the treat. The marina is one short block from the happening main
drag chock full of numerous restaurants and shops including big names like
Talbots and Chico’s or Orvis which we have not seen for months. The best finds
were the deli/markets just a short walk from the docks. Folgarellis on Front
Street and, on the other side, Burritt’s Fresh Market were brimming with specialty items, organic veggies,
choice meats and fish, fresh or smoked,
plus cheeses to die for. Choosing what
we could eat before it spoiled was the biggest problem. We walked through the historic district up to the campus of the old state mental hospital that is being reborn as the Traverse City Commons - a multi-use commercial and residential park. There we found the brick oven bakery to test our willpower. And of course, being
Traverse City (the purported cherry capital of the world), all varieties of cherries
were everywhere. Sadly, we had to leave before the start of the week long film
festival – the schedule was impressive – multiple venues with offerings from 9
in the morning to the after dark show on the blow up screen at the bay front
park next to the marina. With a 150,000 visitors attending this event, we were
not too sorry to miss the crowds, but for film fans this is the place to be.
We also found a couple
antique stores and several independent bookstores. Bookstores do seem to be as
popular as the art galleries around here.
Every little town has one or even two and in bigger towns like Traverse
City, both new and used stores dotted the main street. Books were everywhere even
in the antique stores and upscale boutiques. We also noticed lots of reading
activities – and prominent ads for the local libraries. Spending time in a community of readers is
just about perfect for Erben Renewal.
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