Friday, July 26, 2013

The charms of Lake Charlevoix


The charms of Lake Charlevoix




Inching our way south along the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, we slid into the narrow channel, through the bridge to Round Lake, and on to Lake Charlevoix. The town of Charlevoix sits at this junction of big and small lakes with beaches on two sides.  We anchored southeast of the town proper but a scenic bike ride along the lakeshore back into the heart of things.  We chose this more secluded spot since the marinas in Round Lake were full as well as the anchorage during the week long Venetian Festival underway on the waterfront park. We did peddle back for the concert featuring Mitch Ryder and the Detroit Wheels – think “CC Ryder”. As Steve observed after many of these outdoor concerts, the music volume is in direct relation to its quality. Louder is usually not so great. The warm up act, however, featured six women, of not so youthful age, with a fine backup band who sang blues and rock standards with gusto – we could actually understand the words and enjoy the band riffs.




 
 


 
Our ride into town passed through the exclusive Belvedere Club established in 1878. The public street bisects this summer home enclave on the edge of town which is heavily posted with no trespassing signs “please”, so we did not violate any laws other than voyeurism – peeking at the stately Victorians clustered along the bluff fronted with sweeping lawns. A gracious, private, and elite way of life harkening back to the early 20th century is still alive and well in this corner of Northern Michigan.




In contrast to the quiet streets of the Belvedere Club, the main street of Charlevoix was packed with shoppers and families enjoying the carnival rides, street food, and music. The weather was perfect for strolling the waterfront park and people watching.  The sites included a cruise ship that pulled into the town dock for the evening’s concert. While there were not as many art galleries as in Harbor Springs, we did get a chuckle out of the gallery displaying the mix media of Stephen Palmer – he makes fish out of crutches and found objects. If only there was more wall space on this boat!




Before leaving Charlevoix, we made a stop at the Farmer’s Market. While we had stocked up on the basics at the grocery store, the market provided fresh picked lettuce, salmon, whitefish dip, lamp chops, and best of all cherries and a cherry pie. Oh, yes, a couple scones for Steve’s mid-morning snack – white chocolate and raspberry – thankfully he saved me a bite.






Staying on Lake Charlevoix, we headed southerly to the tip of the lake and anchored off Boyne City. This little town was a perfect cruiser stop – we didn’t even need our bikes to enjoy the treats here.  They have an extensive water front park area with a free shoppers dock making it easy to get ashore. (In Charlevoix we put the dink next to the boat ramp thanks to the helpful ramp attendant who also provided directions to local shops and sites.) Boyne City also has a Chamber office on the edge of the park and they provided advice on the happenings in town.  They even offered to get us a ride to the production at the high school if we wanted to partake.  After fortifying ourselves with Moomers ice cream, we checked out the shops – just looking – but we found another interesting artist making “lamps” from salvaged copper or brass piping and gauges. My description of these “pieces” falls short of the impact, but no matter how unique, sadly, they wouldn’t work on the boat. (They don’t even provide much light either.) The free dancing in the street music was refreshingly worth another trip to shore. Almost every night there is something happening in this little town in one or another of the public spaces – or like the dancing in the streets, they just blocked off a block and kicked up their heels (or paws) in the middle of the street – honestly one lady was dancing with her very talented golden lab. Dare I also mention the beautiful mild weather with rain holding off until after dark making for perfect sleeping temps? We soldier onJ











 

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