In the Pink on
Mackinac Island
With a little more than
six months on the trip, Julia has resisted the call of the t-shirt siren. On
Mackinac she capitulated and purchased a shirt from the Pink Pony Patio Lounge.
This establishment not only made a delicious Pain Killer, but provided us with
live music most afternoons as it is located a few steps down the dock from our
slip. Oh yes, the shirts are PINK!
Besides this major
purchase we have found Mackinac Island a delightful place as promised. It would be hard to oversell an island that
has outlawed motorized vehicles and where bikes and horses rule the roads. We took
a carriage tour and biked around the island – between thunder storms – and also
dodged showers to climb the hill for a tour of the historic fort. This island was the site of the first,
thankfully bloodless, battle in the war of 1812. The British invaded with a far
superior force so the American commander – not realizing that war had been
declared – surrendered without a shot being fired. Today most of the island is
a state park preserving its historic and scenic beauty and the Victorian charm
that has made this a popular resort since the Civil War. Our stay on the dock
coincided with several days of unsettled weather which produced bouts of severe
storms and high winds. This was one time we were happy to not be swinging on
the anchor. Thankfully the storms blew in and out and between we had time to visit
the main sights and shops along the main street. Approaching the island the dominate feature
is the long, long white façade of the Grand Hotel which is famous for having
the longest covered porch in the world. It was worth the $10 cover charge to
view it and its blue painted ceiling up close.
We also learned about
the islands two main exports – fudge and manure. It is vital to not get those
two mixed up, we were told!
One of the most
entertain features of sitting in Mackinac harbor is ferry boat watching! There
are as many as six every thirty minutes. They mostly leave on the hour and half
hour and arrive about 10 minutes beforehand.
Our dock provided a pilothouse view of these arrivals and departures
which may not sound like entertainment, but considering the size, speed and
limited operating space is full of thrills and rocking wake. Particularly fun
are the smaller ferries which sport rooster tails longer than the boat as they
leave the harbor and get up to cruising speed. These commercial vessels are
supposed to respect the no wake rules of the harbor, but occasionally (OK,
frequently) the pressures of schedules make them push the no wake limits.
Fortunately the ferry service does not run 24/7. However, after the ferries in
New York Harbor, we found the gentle roll here almost soothing. During our stay
we also enjoyed watching the arrival of a BIG cruise ship – we missed the
departure in the dark of night. He eased up to the dock like a gentle giant
ignoring the pesky ferries running around him. All of these were dwarfed by the
lake freighters that passed the harbor regularly – even from a distance these
guys made everyone else look tiny. Our stay came between the two major sailing
races held here every summer. The first
this year from Chicago to Mackinac Island finished before we arrived and the
second from Port Huron to the island will arrive as we depart. However, between these two major races
(upwards of 200 vessels in each) we were able to see some local races – the
around island race was just finishing as we arrived. Sailors have our deepest
respect as they are much more exposed to the elements than we are in our cozy
pilothouse; their antics are fun to watch as they dance across the lake.
On a looper note, we
have finally crossed paths with several other boaters doing the loop. The last
time we talked to other loopers was in Brewerton back in early June. With the Erie Canal being closed for a month
a lot of the travelers were bottled up back in NY. So, finally we could enjoy
sharing experience and ideas again with others who are plotting or have
completed the same journey we are on. The
friendliness of boaters in general never ceases to amaze us. Two of the boats
we met on Lake Huron arrived here and greeted us warmly by name. Both are experienced on these waters and
generously offered ideas and cautions. Even the frequent cannon fire from the
fort does not detract from this lovely harbor! It is not a hard place to sit an
extra day and wait for good weather. When
the winds die out and the waves calm down we will be heading to a Lake Michigan
Island with a Mormon history.
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