Marooned in Fonda

Marooned in Fonda

With some light rain and glimpses of sun we made our way through a few more locks and pulled up to the wall after lock 12. The purpose of this stop was to visit some ruins/remains of earlier versions of the Erie Canal.  At this spot, the three main periods of the canals evolution can be seen.  The very earliest small locks are nearby like the ones we saw near Schenectady as well as the next size up. Also at Schohaire there are remains of an aqua duct that carried the canal over the Schohaire Creek – this historic site is therefore called Schohaire Crossing!  Other than a few houses, the lock, and the visitor center, this is a remote and peaceful stop – unless trains are a concern? We sat next to a very busy set of tracks – but their “noise” just added to the dam and birds as background.  We were lucky to have some sunshine for a walk up to the park and visitor center to see the aqua duct since shortly after our return the skies darkened and darkened and darkened, and then it poured with dramatic flashes of lightening.  We turned on the weather channel to discover we were under a tornado warning and of course a danger from lightening. While the storm was exciting – we were not too impressed coming from Florida – but then we were IN Florida according to the sign we passed on the way to the aqua duct! Go figure!

In the morning we had noticed all the logs and debris in the river but did not realize the water had come up enough to make the locks dangerous. (I guess we missed that flash flood warning?) As we were pulling away from the dock after waiting for the fog to lift, the lock tender kindly called us to say the lock ahead was closed, so we would have to wait it out in Fonda.  Here we sit, marooned in Fonda. This is actually a dock inside the canal maintenance facility, is gated and comes with free power.  The workers also kindly offered to drive us a few miles up the road to a big supermarket if we needed more supplies than are available at the convenience stores a few blocks away. We are not sure if they treat everyone this well or if they just feel sorry for the two boats stuck here until the water levels fall.  Thankfully we are in no hurry and have enjoyed a little sunshine to explore and sample local Chinese food for lunch. Fonda apparently really is the ancestral home of Henry Fonda, but we saw no evidence of his life or any connection here.  Fonda in fact is so small that we crossed into several other cities as we rode our bikes around – in few short blocks we visited Fonda, Mohawk, and Fullerton. A stop in the post office was a trip back in time – all original boxes and service windows making the modern display of express boxes seem out of place. The antique store felt like a complete 1950s era five and dime shop – fortunately with some buttons for me. There is a little of the 21st century in the area since we can see the golden arches across the river and at least three pizza joints. Suffering here in Fonda we aren’t.

 

Sunshine

Sunshine on the Erie Canal

Finally we have had a few days with sunshine and warmer temps to explore the village of Waterford, NY. The Memorial Day parade was an unexpected treat on our way to the Price Chopper grocery stop.  Everyone was remembered and honored from all the branches of the armed forces to the local law enforcement officers and the volunteer firemen. The bag pipers were a big hit as well as the two antique fire trucks not to mention the drum and fife core.

 

Waterford, a small town, is packed with vintage homes and businesses.  This is perhaps the most authentic place we have visited and the opposite of a tourist trap.  While we were welcomed in the spotless laundromat and Dave & Paul’s Café, both places were primarily serving locals. The café was especially fun with old photos of the canal area in frames that looked as old as the photos. The food was bountiful, fast, and cheap but not fancy. In fact, the menu might be the same as the one used in the 50s. They were doing a booming business in lottery tickets unlike 50s.  The town folk were out on the canal walk and parks enjoying the warmer weather and the holiday. Although there were a few cruisers like ourselves, most of the people picnicking, fishing and walking appeared to live nearby and actually using the beautiful public spaces.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another chore for the day was purchasing our canal pass from the lock tender at lock #2. We hiked to the top of the lock and watched other boats snag the lines and cables to float up or down and took pictures of the old locks which date back to the Civil War era. While the original Erie dates to 1824, it was rerouted along with the Lake Champlain canal to utilize the Mohawk River channel and allow larger barge traffic. Fortunately the barges no longer run this route, but several of the smaller early lock structures remain. Some are even used for overflow or haul out purposes. The Erie Canal is now preserved as a National Heritage Corridor by the National Park Service and includes a variety of recreational uses both on the water and beside it. We have already seen a variety of boaters from kayaks and canoes to speed boats and fishermen. Along the banks there are bikers and hikers plus the tourists who come to watch all the action.

 

After our relaxing day we cast off early to run the first 5 locks which are a flight – all 30+ feet up and a half a mile or less between them. There is no stopping between these locks. The total lift is 169 feet – more than twice the climb in the Panama Canal from sea level to the summit – just the first five of our 34 total.  It took us about 90 minutes, the average, to complete the run. The process went smoothly since Captain Steve is a master at the throttle and king of the thrusters. I have the easy job of hooking the rope on a cable and holding us steady when the water rushes in to fill the lock. The procedure is basically the same as on the locks we encountered in France with one big difference. In France we often had to run the locks ourselves – that is put bodies on the shore, crank the doors and gates and then launch the crew back on the boat all while holding the boat steady in the lock.  So, basically with the New York Canal Cooperation lock keepers running the antique DC Edison Electric equipment, these locks have been relatively easy. (It took a couple to get a smooth system for handling the rope – but Steve educated me quickly.)   

We locked through the first five locks with a big Hatteras, Miller Time. She is heading for Harbor Springs in upper Lake Michigan and her crew generously spent some time with us reviewing great places to stop on both lakes Michigan and Huron. Friendly local knowledge is always more reliable than the guidebooks printed months ago. After a couple more locks we tied up for a peaceful night along the canal across from a park near Schenectady, NY and watched the clouds roll in – hopefully not the end to our days of sunshine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New flash from the Erie Canal – so far no need for the mules to pull the boat. The tow path does make a great bike trail. Along the old tow path we found remnants of early locks and the overgrown old canal channel. Also saw the remains of an aqua duct that used to cross the river.  That these stone works remain from the early 1800s is a testament to their solid construction.

You may remember our boat was renamed!