Sunshine on the Erie Canal
Finally we have had a few days with
sunshine and warmer temps to explore the village of Waterford, NY. The Memorial
Day parade was an unexpected treat on our way to the Price Chopper grocery
stop. Everyone was remembered and
honored from all the branches of the armed forces to the local law enforcement
officers and the volunteer firemen. The bag pipers were a big hit as well as
the two antique fire trucks not to mention the drum and fife core.
Waterford, a small town, is packed
with vintage homes and businesses. This is
perhaps the most authentic place we have visited and the opposite of a tourist
trap. While we were welcomed in the
spotless laundromat and Dave & Paul’s Café, both places were primarily
serving locals. The café was especially fun with old photos of the canal area
in frames that looked as old as the photos. The food was bountiful, fast, and
cheap but not fancy. In fact, the menu might be the same as the one used in the
50s. They were doing a booming business in lottery tickets unlike 50s. The town folk were out on the canal walk and
parks enjoying the warmer weather and the holiday. Although there were a few
cruisers like ourselves, most of the people picnicking, fishing and walking
appeared to live nearby and actually using the beautiful public spaces.
Another chore for the day was
purchasing our canal pass from the lock tender at lock #2. We hiked to the top
of the lock and watched other boats snag the lines and cables to float up or
down and took pictures of the old locks which date back to the Civil War era.
While the original Erie dates to 1824, it was rerouted along with the Lake
Champlain canal to utilize the Mohawk River channel and allow larger barge
traffic. Fortunately the barges no longer run this route, but several of the
smaller early lock structures remain. Some are even used for overflow or haul
out purposes. The Erie Canal is now preserved as a National Heritage Corridor
by the National Park Service and includes a variety of recreational uses both
on the water and beside it. We have already seen a variety of boaters from
kayaks and canoes to speed boats and fishermen. Along the banks there are
bikers and hikers plus the tourists who come to watch all the action.
After our relaxing day we cast off
early to run the first 5 locks which are a flight – all 30+ feet up and a half
a mile or less between them. There is no stopping between these locks. The
total lift is 169 feet – more than twice the climb in the Panama Canal from sea
level to the summit – just the first five of our 34 total. It took us about 90 minutes, the average, to
complete the run. The process went smoothly since Captain Steve is a master at
the throttle and king of the thrusters. I have the easy job of hooking the rope
on a cable and holding us steady when the water rushes in to fill the lock. The
procedure is basically the same as on the locks we encountered in France with
one big difference. In France we often had to run the locks ourselves – that is
put bodies on the shore, crank the doors and gates and then launch the crew
back on the boat all while holding the boat steady in the lock. So, basically with the New York Canal
Cooperation lock keepers running the antique DC Edison Electric equipment,
these locks have been relatively easy. (It took a couple to get a smooth system
for handling the rope – but Steve educated me quickly.)
We locked through the first five
locks with a big Hatteras, Miller Time. She is heading for Harbor Springs in upper
Lake Michigan and her crew generously spent some time with us reviewing great
places to stop on both lakes Michigan and Huron. Friendly local knowledge is
always more reliable than the guidebooks printed months ago. After a couple
more locks we tied up for a peaceful night along the canal across from a park
near Schenectady, NY and watched the clouds roll in – hopefully not the end to
our days of sunshine.
New flash from the Erie Canal – so
far no need for the mules to pull the boat. The tow path does make a great bike
trail. Along the old tow path we found remnants of early locks and the
overgrown old canal channel. Also saw the remains of an aqua duct that used to
cross the river. That these stone works
remain from the early 1800s is a testament to their solid construction.
You may remember our boat was renamed!
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