Leaving the Lakes
for the Rivers
For next 1500 miles of
our loop we will be traveling on rivers – most of these waterways have been
controlled by man which means we must navigate the locks regulating the water
level. Our journey began at the Chicago lock where we dropped about one foot.
Then, we left Chicago via the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal which took us
through the heart of the city. The first few miles included 30+ low bridges requiring
us to lower our mast one more time. (Thankfully
Steve and Paul did that maneuver before the kids left us.) We were awed by the scenery from the river
level as we left the high rises behind us and continued through more industrial
landscape toward Joliet, our first stop on the Illinois River.
lowest bridge
Before reaching our dock
on the free wall, we had an hour wait at the Lockport lock where we were
lowered almost 40 feet by the very friendly and helpful lock attendants. One
even grabbed our line and helped secure us to the floating bollard that gently
guided us on our descent – a much easier process than holding ropes only
secured to the top or even sliding our rope down a pole. This is the largest drop on the Illinois
section of the trip and our first real lock in several months. These are the big boy locks measuring 600 feet
in length and 110 in width to accommodate the numerous commercial barges that
ply this route. Fortunately we only met a few of those on our run down from
Chicago. We were held up while two tugs maneuvered a loaded barge completely
blocking the channel for about a half hour. We also saw several of the tugs
that have hydraulic pilot houses so they can both see over the barges and get
low enough to clear those low bridges in the Chicago area.
passing through the electric fish barrier - one boat at a time
Our posts have been
sporadic both because we had Paul and Amanda keeping us busy and because the
WIFI signal in big old Chicago was unreliable. However, arriving at the free
wall provided by the city of Joliet we found not only free power outlets, but a
super WIFI connection. So we are taking advantage and trying to get up to date.
Joliet has several claims to fame – first it is on the historic Illinois &
Michigan canal and Route 66. These two transportation avenues speak to the
heydays of Joliet. The canal helped open this area and Chicago by providing a
water route for commerce from Lake Michigan to the Gulf of Mexico at New
Orleans and fostered the steel industry here in the late 1900s. Route 66 did
much the same for businesses in the early era of the motor car. Both of these
were showcased in the local history museum cleverly housed in a former church.
and today....
with canal walls in the middle
Interesting side note - Joliet is the site of the oldest public community college which is still a force in this town.
One monument to the
wealth of this city in the 1920s remains – the restored Rialto Square Theatre.
The building is impressive from the outside with a mosaic tiled entrance rising
more than 100 feet, but the inside is beyond opulent. The slightly rundown,
boarded up and repair seeking downtown does not hint at the inside of the Rialto.
We caught the last week of the summer tours offered which included an organ
concert on the theatre’s Barton Grand Theatre Pipe Organ. The Esplanade or
Grand Hall was designed to look like the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles and it
really does. The arch between this hall and the Rotunda resembles the Arch de
Triomphe in Paris while the Rotunda at 75 feet high is fashioned after the
Pantheon in Rome. The classic roots are further developed with the elaborate
gold leaf plaster sculptures on the walls and ceilings. Then there are the
light fixtures which include The Duchess – reported to be the largest hand-cut
crystal chandelier in the US, weighing over 2 ½ tons. The attention to detail
is amazing through out and the loving restoration a credit to the people of
Joliet.
It was hard not to
notice the bright lights on the Harrah Casino just across the river so we
visited for lunch at The Restaurant – formerly known as the “Paula Dean Kitchen”.
Lunch was tasty and apparently still bares the touch of Ms. Dean if not her
name, which was hastily removed after her recent negative publicity. It is kind
of making us homesick to see sweet potato pie on a menu.
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