Wednesday, April 9, 2014

St Augustine and crossing into GA

St Augustine
All the shoals were covered by the tide and all our remaining electronics functioned up to par so we could enjoy the peaceful scenery between Daytona and St. Augustine – the secret of this coast is revealed to cruisers like us – lucky enough to enjoy perfect weather as we passed the homes and wild places on this route. We were lucky to have an uneventful cruise and a smooth mooring – Captain Steve piloted us to our M47 ball and the crew managed to snag it without any drama although we did end up switching out our first rope for one that made less noise. We even managed a haircut and grocery run to put fresh tuna on the menu. On our slack day we used Enterprise to visit our new mail service and pick up supplies from a Publix and various stores not available in most marinas.  Later we hosted Brian and Jenny who drove over from J’ville to spend the evening with us and check out Erben Renewal.  We enjoyed a multitude of dessert options from the Biscottis Restaurant & Bakery in the Avondale district.  Yum!  Jenny was correct when she said we would be eating and thinking kindly of them for days. Check their website if you want to see for yourself: www.biscottis.net








From St. Augustine we headed to Fort George Island and a quick visit to the Kingsley Plantation. The “owner’s” house was started in the 1780s and expanded by Zephaniah Kingsley when he moved his family there in 1814 to establish a plantation to grow Sea Island cotton. The park included the remains of 25 slave quarter buildings.  These were Tabby structures – a traditional building method using oyster shells. Under the Spanish rule in Florida, Kingsley’s African wife, Anna, - herself a freed slave, could own her own plantation and slaves.  However, when Spain lost control of Florida in the 1820s, Kingsley moved his family to Haiti where they continued to enjoy their rights in a free black republic.
















Our next stop was historic St. Mary’s GA just five miles up the St Mary’s river which forms the border between Georgia and Florida.  This small town is home to the Kings Bay Trident Submarine Base and a small museum dedicated to submariners.  It is also the jumping off point for ferries serving the Cumberland Island National Seashore. After visiting the museum and learning everything we ever wanted to know about the operation and life aboard a Trident – this nearly two football field long behemoth has all our respect – we hope not to be meeting any of them as we transit this area.















We jumped across to the Cumberland Island anchorage off the Sea Island dock used by the ferries. From here were took the dink to visit the small Ice House museum and ruins of Dungeness – a 37,000 square foot mansion built by Thomas and Lucy Carnegie– one of many homes eventually built for their children on Cumberland Island. It was not hard to see the attraction of this tranquil spot with the Spanish moss draped massive live oaks and wandering “wild” horses. Even though many structures were built here, most of the island has been maintained in its natural state making this a rare glimpse at an untouched Sea Island ecosystem.  Even now only park service vehicles are allowed so transportation is limited to two wheels or two feet. An early plantation did exist before the Civil War and trees harvested here were reportedly used to build the USS Constitution – “Old Ironsides”. (Don't know how accurate this account is since they make the same claim in St. Simons just to the north!)






















Next trip we will stop at the northern end to visit the Plum Orchard Mansion – which the visitor center told us is staffed by volunteers who get to live in the servants’ quarters and they are currently in need of candidates!  Our next land based residence perhaps ….. future plans to ponder!




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