Port
Clyde and Monhegan Island
Our
first stop after heading south from the heavenly cruising grounds of Penobscot
Bay was Port Clyde. This is Linda Bean
territory – she has supported the local economy with her general store, Wyeth
Gallery and a restaurant as well as moorings for boaters like us. Most of the
harbor is occupied by working lobster and fishing boats; however, the shore is
ringed with homes – though picturesque many are approaching mansion
status. We walked to the lighthouse but
were too early for the museum. We did stop at the local fish market on our way
back for fresh crab cakes and flounder.
The master gardener on the edge of the village picked beets, beans and
rhubarb for us – the whole lot at the bargain price of $4.
Afternoon break in the Port Clyde General Store
Monhegan Ferry Landing in Port Clyde
The
next morning we caught the Monhegan Island Ferry. It was a good trick just to
find the ferry in the fog, so we were glad to let another captain find the
island located 10 miles off shore. Monhegan is a unique place for many reasons.
Most
of Monhegan has been reclaimed from development and devoted to hiking trails
although it is still a vibrant lobstering community. However, they only set traps in the winter
when they catch the hard shell lobster which bring a higher price. The lobstermen also have a tradition of not
setting their traps out until all the boats are ready to go. If one fisherman is ill or has mechanical
problems, the entire fleet will wait.
We were told only 35 hardy folks spend
the winter on the island.
In
the summer, on the other hand, the village has become a bustling art colony
with a tradition of hosting summer artists that reaches back to the 19th
century. Many examples of their work is on display in the lighthouse museum and
galleries around town.
The arts go well
beyond just painters. This young fellow entertained us as we walked the town.
We
spent the day walking a few trails – fortunately catching a few views from the
Atlantic cliffs before the fog returned, hiking to the top of the light house
where the views were again fog enshrouded, strolling the village streets, and
relaxing with lunch in the Inn that provides a view of the foggy harbor. A few galleries were also included in our
tour and offered tempting selections – but with the serious artists charging
serious prices we managed to return to our floating home without any more works
of art for our crowded storage unit.
The island library has a sad story - it was founded in memory of two children lost in a boating tragedy. A nice way to keep their memory alive for the next generation.
Departing
the island, ferry passengers are treated to another interesting tradition. As the ferry pulls away, adventurous souls
plunge from the dock into the chilly harbor waters. Refreshing on a warm day – kind of crazy in
the typical Maine weather.
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