SVG – St Vincent and the Grenadines

SVG – St Vincent and the Grenadines

The last anchorage on St Lucia before our jump south was in Laborie Harbor – a very rolly spot but it got us closer to our final destination – Admiralty Bay on Bequia. This was a comparatively long run of 59 miles or so since we did not plan to stop on St Vincent. Most of our recent jumps have been much less – from 2 to 4 hours and 6 at the longest. Never knowing for sure the negative impact of the tides, currents, winds and waves, we wanted to give ourselves a daylight departure and arrival.  The open water portion of the trip was early in the day and with a favorable wind to tide, so we moved along smoothly and at a nice clip for our slow girl. With the tall islands – there can be “disturbed” waters just off shore both leaving and approaching the "volcanoes".  Fortunately, we had no excitement on this crossing and made excellent time although still not early enough to check in. (Visiting boaters cannot leave their vessels until completing the check in process with customs and immigration.)  So, we took the opportunity, while being confined to the boat, to scrub the dinghy bottom.  Even though this may sound easy – it does require some time squeezed under the dinghy on the top deck and contorted around the pontoons and motor at the back to remove all the scum and growth populating the bottom. However, the “exercise” made for a good night’s sleep – especially after the rock and roll of Laborie Hbr!

It seems every island country has its own unique rules about the clearance process.  We try to be up to date with the current procedures, but….  Some places strictly demand that only the captain can leave the boat to do the clearing in. Others are less formal and don’t really care who shows up and then still others, like here, require everyone to be present in the office to clear immigration. Thinking this was a “captain only rule”, Steve went in to do the clearance only to find he had to come back and get me as well. (New procedure required all on board to be presented for immigration!) Finally, all legal we wandered the streets of this tiny town on Bequia.

Having never really heard about the Grenadines before planning this trip we were surprised to find such a vibrant community – even in this “end of season” time. The country is composed of the large island of St Vincent to the north and an addition 20+ much smaller islands (part of the Grenadines)   scattered in a southerly arch. Bequia is the closest large island to St Vincent and is connected with frequent ferry service to the larger island and its agriculture products and ports. From watching the loading and unloading of the ferries, everything on Bequia comes through St Vincent.

The lovely harbor was reasonable calm with the east winds so we relaxed for several days on the hook next to the floating bar.  There were also a bevy of restaurants on shore with a nice walkway linking those on the south side. A very cruiser friendly stop, the town also provides handy dinghy docks near the shops and restaurants. 

entrance to dinghy dock

whale bar a link to whaling history

gingerbread

fuel delivered to the boat!

part of the shore walkway

#one bread man delivers

Ricky (Ricardo) gave us a tour by road around the island so we could see the views from the steep hills and the smaller communities on the south side of the island. His style was a perfect fit for us as he drove about the speed of our boat or maybe even slower (5mph) but that was mostly due to the condition and nature of the roads.  We enjoyed this slow pace and a closer look at the villages of Bequia.

Steve also took the opportunity to dive with Earle – Bequia Dive Adventures – another very casual and personal dive experience. Having been ignorant of Bequia before planning this trip we were delighted with this friendly cruiser hangout.

our anchorage next to the floating bar did not hurt!

Teddy the boat cat

Marvelous Mustique!  A very private island, Mustique welcomes cruisers to its spacious mooring field.  Anchoring is only allowed for the big boats – 60ft plus – or if all the balls are taken AND the 85 USD fee is charged.  Since this fee is good for three nights, we stayed our three days and wandered this little manicured piece of Caribbean paradise. And manicured it is – almost like a park with Caribbean style.  There did not appear to be a lot of “visitors” or “guests” on this expensive and exclusive hideaway, but we did see lots and lots of workers keeping the beaches raked, the streets swept and the gardens pruned.  Buildings were in perfect order even the quaint fish market and the veggie stands sparkled. One gets feeling of the Caribbean without the reality of poverty which can be seen on most other islands.

ferry leaving Mustique

Next stop Tobago Cays Marine Park. 25USD a day covers the mooring ball fee and the park fee which is charged per person every day. We could have anchored and saved a few dollars, but the ease of using a mooring ball is well worth the small fee. And, the money goes to preserve and protect this very popular spot (we hope.) The “cays” are small uninhabited islands sheltered from the mighty Atlantic Ocean waves by extensive barrier reef. These shallow coral structures provide protection and habitat for an abundance of sea life making this a prime draw for snorkeling and diving. The brisk and steady winds also draw kite surfers to add to the entertainment. Steve took the opportunity to snorkel the reef and we hiked a little on the island spotting a few nesting brown noddy birds.

Even with a brisk east wind the anchorage was fairly comfortable although as the wind speed went up the chop and swell found its way into the harbor forcing us leave the clear Bahama like waters and move over to Chatham Bay on Union Island. This huge bay faces the west and with the surrounding mountains provides a calm anchorage.  The shore is isolated but several colorful restaurants offer meals either delivered or on shore.  We opted to eat on the boat to make a dent in our provisions.

A brief stop in Clifton harbor to check out was required before we could head to Carriacou and Grenada.  Clifton – also on Union has a harbor protected by extensive reef but facing those prevailing easterly winds.  It is a popular spot with all the necessary cruiser amenities but looking a little shop worn this late in the season.  The area is a hot spot for kite surfing schools and again those intrepid kiteboarders were racing about.  We did not linger however, and headed on south to Carriacou – our first stop truly within the hurricane “safe” zone and officially in Grenada.