Surprising St. Lucia

Surprising St. Lucia

Being a little over stuffed with the French goodies, we kind of expected St Lucia to be more like Dominica.  However, it is more like an “American English-speaking” French Island. There is a lot of Caribbean charm here but also the polish we had seen in many parts of the French islands – at least in Rodney Bay. It also helps that St Lucia like Martinique has been spared by the last big hurricanes. Our first stop was Rodney Bay – where we chose to drop the hook below Fort Rodney on Pigeon Island. The Captain reported that check in here was easily taken care of while the crew finished doing a load of laundry. Steve did have a snorkel in the park and was not wowed, but it did cool him off so was worth the effort. In front of us was also the Sandals Resort and their boats occasionally rocked us but otherwise we were mostly on our own compared to the fleet anchored across the bay. Oh, yes there was loud music – some of it jazz but a lot just noise from the local beach. Fortunately, they all went home fairly early – before 2AM anyway!  

However, there is a wonderful grocery store with a very convenient dinghy dock at the end of the lagoon.  We stopped first for lunch at the marina then dinked on over to see what the shops offered.  While we loved shopping in the French groceries, the store here had familiar brands and many, many choices.  It is definitely a place to come and resupply the boat if we ever deplete the stores we have on board. In addition, the shops around the grocery include all sorts of other essentials from clothing and shoes to “stuff”.  On the other side of the marina is a hardware store and Island Water World marine shop.  Altogether Rodney Bay is a great shopping/stock up/restock stop!

Early one morning we tied to the park dock – Pigeon Island is a national trust park – and walked out to have breakfast at Prudy’s Escape while we waited for the park to officially open so we could pay our entry fees. After enjoying Prudy’s feast with excellent homemade bread, we entered legally and climbed up to the fort ruins. (After the park opens there is usually a staff member posted near the dink dock to collect fees.) The island has been a strategic English stronghold since the late 1700s from which the Brits could keep an eagle eye on the French Martinique 25 miles to the north – at least on a clear day. We didn’t hike up to the signal hill that sported communications towers maned by the USA during WWII. Just wasn’t clear enough to warrant the effort? OK maybe lazy???

Off to our next stop a mooring in Marigot Bay. We stopped here to wait for a mail drop from our mail service – we haven’t seen mail in many months and our box was overflowing.  However, since we rarely have been in a marina it has been difficult to organize a drop.  Marigot Bay Resort has beautiful facilities in a protected bay and includes mooring balls.  The plan was to enjoy the resort, catch up on chores while we waited for our mail. Lots of laundry later – and a little snorkel or two (washed all the cushions, pillows and soft stuff!) our mail packet was delivered.  We grabbed it from the FedEx deliveryman and headed on south to Soufriere home to another marine reserve.  Here we got a mooring from Distant Thunder – the local boat-based fruit & veg man.  

helping with the lines

selling fruit

Besides replenishing our fresh fruit, he organized a tour for us of some unique sites.  The first stop was the drive-in volcano.  This is a local hangout with 24 ponds in the volcano crater which bubble and smoke like a scene of mass destruction. Clever folks have also channeled the hot water to mix with a cooler spring and pool in some bathes that are popular with visitors and locals alike.  The “healthy” volcanic mud is also made available to be slathered on the body and then washed off in the pools (or showers for the more fastidious.) We didn’t take time to try the mud bathes but enjoyed the walk into the Sulphur pools and the views surrounding the crater.

Out of town we stopped at a lush waterfall dripping with tropical rainforest vegetation.  As on many of these volcanic islands, roads are full of hairpin curves, narrow, and steep. We did stop at a nice view point overlooking the harbor at Soufriere.  Of course, a lovely St Lucian lady had a stall selling her “local” products.  

Everywhere here in Soufriere we found stalls with eager (OK aggressive) sales men and women. Some chased us down the street dangling and arm full of necklaces – decidedly not locally made. However, the natural beauty of the area made it easy to overlook the hard sell.  There was clearly a double standard as well with fancy, fancy homes on the hills and hovels just below. It was hard not to buy just to “help” those struggling during this low season.

The major attraction here is the diving and the striking drama of the Pitons – the Petite and Gros Piton – very steep and tall cones which drop off into deep water. In addition to mooring in the harbor we also moved over to the bay between the Pitons for a few nights to enjoy the dramatic views. Sadly, these also came with a stiff current and swirling winds that came off the mountains making the anchorage rolly. Fortunately, the flopper stopper helped most of the time. Our stay was extended since we had to wait for yet another FedEx delivery back in Marigot, but lingering gave Steve a chance to dive several times with Perry – his personal guide and clean aquatic growth off the the boat bottom. Diving in St Lucia must be done with a local dive shop or guide.  Since the season is mostly over, it was easy to organize personal trips and Perry turned out to be a most cheerful and easy-going guide.  He and his boat captain would pick Steve up from our boat – they managed to find us where ever we had spent the night – and would speed off for a dive or two. Great service with a smile and hard to beat with spectacular under sea entertainment. 

With last FedEx in hand we finally checked out and prepared to head on south to St Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG).