Back in time to Shelburne, NS

Back in time to Shelburne, NS

While Lunenburg was largely a Victorian town, Shelburne, our next stop, is set in the late 1700s – 1783 to be precise – since that is when the Loyalists arrived from the USA after the defeat of the British in our Revolutionary War. Unlike Lunenburg that was settled by Foreign Protestants (i.e. Germans and Swiss) and reached its heyday in the late 19^th Century, Shelburne’s historic core seems to have never left the 18^th Century. Partly this is due to the magic of Hollywood.  Shelburne could be accurately called "the town that Hollywood built".  The movie version of the Scarlet Letter was set here and some of the town was spruced up, modified, and enhanced for that purpose. For example the Cox warehouse acquired a cupola/ steeple that is not period correct for the rest of the town. The market building was added and the barrel factory was reconstructed. However, the stark simplicity of many buildings here and the largely deserted streets lend the village a peaceful air – or is it a deserted sound stage?  With few tourists or even locals and only the occasional car, it really is easy to imagine this town as it was in the post-Revolutionary era. (In fact , we learned that Shelburne's boom period was a very short one – ending before the 19^th Century began. Thankfully most of that early period has survived - maybe thanks in part to Hollywood!)

Before describing our visit to the museums and shops of Shelburne, the night at Carter’s Beach deserves a mention – this quiet spot is excellent in all but Northeast winds – and as luck would have it those very winds kicked up about 1 AM sending ocean swells into our lives until we pulled the anchor at 8 AM – not much sleep was had in the interim.  From the forecast – 15 to 20 building to 30 knots and seas 1-2 building to 2 to 3 meters – we searched out places to hide that might offer better protection.  However, when we poked out noses out and rounded the Port Mouton Island, we decided the swell was in our favor and we made a run for Shelburne.  It was indeed a pleasant surprise to find it less rolly than our night and we quickly arrived in the very sheltered harbor of Shelburne – reported to be the third largest natural harbor in North America.

Despite the sleepy feel to the town, it is an easy place to rest or wait for a good weather window to cross the Bay of Fundy.  We are attached to a mooring off the yacht club with a panoramic view of the waterfront and historic town. The museum complex – three in one – is a short walk from the dinghy dock.  The Dory Museum visit included a video on the Sidney, the master dory builder, who worked in the building for 75+ years – from 1914 until his death. He trained his sons and they in turn trained the current master builder who still is building dories in this building.  The exhibits included a working dory from the days of the schooners with all the typical gear on board.  Again the small size for the big job and vulnerable exposure to the mighty Atlantic were impressive. We also learned that the dories could be stacked – looking at the limited space on the schooner decks we were wondering how they managed to get more than a dozen dories on board.

In the county museum building we saw an old fire pumper – built in 1740. Amazing that it survived since the twin was reportedly chopped up for firewood. Also, the volunteer firemen had to pay to be on the force as well as provide their own uniforms. Dedicated!

The final museum building houses the recreated store run by the Ross brothers and later the home of the Thompson family.  The store had many interesting artifacts of the time – including a massive barrel of port wine and a hog of tobacco.

One of the beautifully manicured buildings in the historic district is home to a delicious treat. The Charlotte Lane advertises sublime food and lives up to its billing.  The food was sublime and the portions generous.  The best, however, was the arrival of Alizann – in the late afternoon – just in time to join us for the feast. What could be better than a special meal shared with friends – catching up on their adventures in Newfoundland and the North! Quiet Shelburne is still a special place.  

Lunenburg, NS

Lunenburg, NS

Charming, quaint, colorful are all adjectives for Lunenburg and begin to capture why this town is a UNESCO world heritage site. Instead of dying with the cod fishery, the folks in Lunenburg captured their spirit and bottled it in a living history town.  This is not your basic recreation of history as found in Williamsburg, VA or Louisburg, NS where costumed period actors populate a reconstructed city.  This is a living town that has stopped the decay of time.  In fact, they have turned back the clock to preserve many of the buildings that remain in the 48 block core of the town.  (Only a couple minor changes have been made to the original grid plan since it was drawn in 1753) Yet, this is a place where people live, work and play.  Yes, there is a lot of touristy stuff and an abundance of restaurants and galleries, but off the main street it is a town where time stands still.  The clock stopped in the early 1990s but much remains from the earliest days in the mid 1750s through the boom times of the late 1800s and early 20^th century.  This mix of architectural styles only adds to the charm and authenticity.  Needless to say, we had a great time here.

examples of the Lunenburg BUMP

Lunenburg is home to the Bluenose 2 – that is the replica of the historic schooner which held the schooner racing cup for many years  (1920s and 30s) – much to the chagrin of Gloucester MA fishermen.  The rivalry between these two fishing crews in the age of schooner fishing is legendary. Only one ship is reputed to have bested the famous Bluenose – the Columbia but that race series was thrown out for technical reasons – which is why Bluenose could claim to be undefeated.  Now the Americans – specifically Eastern Shipyards in Panama City FL has built a replica Columbia  - and that very replica is now in Lunenburg being fitted for her sails by the same folks that fit the Bluenose 2.  It was quite a surprise to see this beautiful sleek schooner with the historic pedigree sporting our home port of Panama City, FL as we strolled the wharf in Lunenburg.  These two tall ships are not the only beauties here… We got a close look at the Picton Castle and Perseverance as well as several smaller sailing lovelies.  Still a working harbor, there were also a variety of scallop scrapers marching about – thankfully delivering fresh scallops for our dinner. 

While we did not get to see any race action or even friendly sparing between the big schooners, we did catch the 63rd International Dory Races – five heats of dory competition between crews from Lunenburg and visiting Gloucester elite.  The crowd cheered for both sides but in the end were delighted to see their Canadian team sweep the day and claim the cup once again. 

The dory has a prominent place in the fishing heritage of these seafaring towns.  As we learned in the museum here, schooners would take 10 to 12 dory crews out to the fishing banks and each would set hand lines to catch their haul of cod.  Seeing the small and vulnerable size of the traditional dories, it is a wonder that anyone survived this life let alone prospered in fishing. Rum Runners, however, did not have it so easy!

Yet Lunenburg did prosper for many years as is seen in the evidence of opulent homes, businesses, and churches built in the heyday of fishing. Many of these fine structures have been refurbished and perhaps even improved with recent attention to keeping the character of this town alive. Some have even taken on a new purpose built on the old one!

A highlight of our stop here was a concert in the Zion Lutheran church – ancient choral music – among the Admiral’s favorites and graciously endured by the Captain. The concert was set in the acoustically superior lofty space of the church built in the late 1800s. It also sports the highest steeple in town – clearly visible on approach to the harbor. 

The Anglican Church is also a master piece especially so since it burned nearly to the ground 12 years ago and was rebuilt exactly as the original.  This was possible since the building had just been documented in great details for its heritage status. – The story of the stars over the altar is fully explained in a youtube video – worth a watch.  (google – youtube stars of St. John’s Church Lunenburg)

Even lost in fog and the occasional rain shower, Lunenburg rates five stars and is a not to be missed stop. (That is not even counting the free dinghy docks - easy access to groceries and other essentials)

 one of several......

Oh yes, Steve seems to have mastered the stabilzers - at least they refuse to leak in front of him.... that XXX thruster is another issue .....