Lake
Champlain – rain or shine
The
rains began falling as we crossed the red dotted line marking the US/Canada
border and continued as we struggled to tie to the mini floating docks at the
custom shed. The kind crew on the border
enforcement boat jumped out to help so we could officially clear back into the
states without blowing away. Paperwork
in order – herb garden still on board, we continued around the corner to Gaines
Marina in Rouses Point. With good luck
we caught the Friday afternoon farmer’s market for fresh produce, local wine
and dinner. This tiny hamlet also had a convenient Laundromat with a bonus
literacy lesson. The walls were papered
with signs from the professionally printed “Children must be supervised” to dozens
of hand written on gold paper “Do not wash any rugs”. In between were a variety
of shorter and longer missives with instructions on how to use the coin
machine, where to find soap, how long the machines would run, when the doors
automatically lock, and most amusing what would happen if caught digging in the
trash – being banned for life and turned over to the police. The final word on
the way out the door, of course, said “Thanks for doing your laundry with us!” Oh
yes, there were numerous reminders that the premises were being videotaped
which is why there are no photos of the signs :-)
Since
leaving Gaines, we have hung around on Lake Champlain enjoying gradually improving
weather. It rained most of our time in
Deep Bay and as we crossed The Gut to City Bay and North Hero. After stopping for lunch at Hero’s Welcome
the sun finally poked out for a short walk among the antique shops in North
Hero. Our objective here was the general store, Hero’s Welcome, a living
example of the store with everything that is the heart of its community. This multi-building complex includes a post
office, deli and bakery, hotel and a store that sells many goodies from screws
to cake mixes. Steve even found the food
coloring we need to track a leak in our water system. The book section was
impressive as was the kitchen gear, food and miscellaneous treats. The neighboring antique stores were a bonus
and a chance to enjoy a little sunshine. The local history museum was also open
and worth a stop in this vintage building.
The weather improved even more as we moved
over to Burton Island State Park in the Inland Sea. This full service park is unique in Vermont
since the only access is by boat/ferry. The frequent ferry runs bring families
with bikes and camping gear for day use or overnight stays in one of the
campsites or primitive lean-tos. It is easy to see the appeal of an island park
where the kids can’t get away but have the freedom to ride their bikes with
abandon, fish off the docks, or swim in the brisk water. The park also has a
roomy harbor and mooring balls one of which we caught. The island has had
several names over the years from White – named for the tree bark, to Potter
and then Burton – both names of former owners who farmed the land here. Even though the last owner was not a Burton,
it has retained that name. In the 1960s the island was deeded to the state for
a park and has gradually been returned to the wild – on a short walk we saw the
few remains of the farming years and with sunshine admired the views over the
lake. As the weather continued to improve we re-crossed The Gut – a narrow and
shallow opening between The Inland Sea eastern section of the upper lake and the
main western portion.
We headed for Valcour Island where a wealth of anchoring
possibilities was available since the winds promised to be light. We chose one
on the sheltered west shore of this historic island – famed for a Benedict
Arnold battle with the British during the Revolutionary War. On the island we
hiked up to the lighthouse that is currently being renovated but the working
crew happily took a break to let us wander around and enjoy the views. This light is still active – or more
accurately – re-activated. In 1930s the
light was transferred to a steel tower but then in the early 2000s the light
was moved back to the historic building and powered with the sun. The steel
tower is now home to an osprey family. While we had the cove to ourselves when
we dropped anchor and left for our walk, by sunset there were 12 or so boats
with us and many more came and left during the afternoon. All this on a weekday – we were glad our stop
was not on a weekend when we hear it can get busy!
Steve used the warm sunshine
to change the prop on our stern thruster – just an excuse for a swim except he
had to wear his wet suit or freeze some vital parts. In addition, he began the
process of installing new and more secure door locks – just a busy guy. I, in contrast, had no trouble lounging in my
PJs with a book!
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