Taking a break in
Columbus MS
small leak flood......
The land yacht did
serve us well for this trip even providing warmth when the winds off the river
blew about 20 knots and the temps dipped into the 20s. Even these brisk winter
winds and temps did not deter our touring. We all just layered on the clothes –
(for Steve an me) all of our clothes!
We paused at Greenwood
for a quick lunch at the Delta Bistro on our way west. This chic cozy restaurant was packed with
customers who all seemed to know each other, so we knew we were in a popular local
spot. The food proved this assumption true – it was so good we did not take
time for photos until it was all gone.
Steve’s poached duck sandwich was voted the best entrée and the bread
and butter pudding a hit on the dessert side. On our way back to Columbus we
managed to stop at Honest Abe's for pulled pork and donuts - another local
Greenwood eatery worth wandering off the highway to discover.
In between these
delicious lunches we spent time and evenings in Greenville and Clarksdale. The
Walnut Street Blues district in Greenville was our first stop where we were
early for the music. While we waited for
the promised “good” band to get going, the boys entertained themselves at the
pool tables – Steve showing his finely tuned skills that even surprised the
resident pool shark. Amanda braved the
authentic décor to leave our mark on the heavily autographed walls.
From Greenville we travelled up to Clarksdale
for a stop at Ground Zero – a club where Morgan Freeman is part owner. No Morgan sightings, but the crowd was
entertaining. Since the music was only
so-so (they called it hillbilly blues) – we moved on to Red’s where the joint
was jumping. This small and intimate venue was packed with Blues lovers
enjoying the traditional delta music.
During the days we managed to tour the
welcome center museum in Greenville housed in a building constructed to look
like a paddle wheeler. One tiny point of interest is Greenville was the home to the Stein retail business that today is one of my favorite stores - SteinMart!
We backtracked to
Leland for a surprise treat at the Hwy 61 museum where Pat Thomas played for us
in the museum lobby. Pat is the son of James
“Son” Thomas a delta legend who has taken up his father’s mantle with the
guitar. He is also well known for his
CAT artwork – picked up as the logo for the Cat Vodka brand. This tiny museum was also a jewel with
treasures and artifacts from many of the Blues greats. We were surprised to see the saxophone player
from the previous evening in one photo.
We had seen the lead singer’s photo in the earlier stop at the welcome
center display. Even though the crowd
had been thin when we left, the band had indeed been quality.
Our stop in Leland also
included a quick visit to the Jim Henson museum commemorating Kermit the Frog’s
birthplace on Deer Creek and a tour of the many musical murals.
Perhaps the highpoint
of our museum touring was the B.B. King museum in Indianola. This new and high-tech
museum provided an overview of B.B. King’s life as well as many of the other
formative figures in history of Delta Blues. Having enjoyed his music for many
years, we now have a greater understanding of this generous man who has
performed with class from his earliest years yet has never forgotten his roots. He comes back to perform in
Indianola each summer and now in his 80s plans to continue performing. While W.C. Handy was the first to put Blues
music on paper, B.B. King is the King of the Blues.
Our route conveniently ran close to the factory where Paul purchases his materials to make bullets, so we detoured to Ruleville to pick up his recent shipment and as a bonus were given a tour of the factory.
Our visit to the Delta
was motivated by our interest in Blues music as well as the story of the 1927
flood that devastated this area.
Unfortunately,
the small museum devoted to this historic flood was not open. The rain and mud we experienced on our short
visit did remind us of this low and flat land which is vulnerable to the rising
river. In the park we noted the historic
flood levels at the observation tower. As we headed back east to Columbus the
flat delta land quickly gave way to the hill country visually reminding us of
the extent of the floodplain.
Oh, one other discovery is the delta preference for tamales. Hot Tamale Heaven came highly recommended although we passed on the tamale tour described in our travel brochure.
Back in Columbus, Steve
and I toured the Waverly Planation Mansion – a private home which has been
restored and is open for tours. Sadly,
we were not allowed to photograph the interior but from the outside the octagonal
copula gives a hint of the soaring central hall where balls have been held
since before the Civil War. Remarkably this home has only been owned by two
families since it was constructed by Colonel George Hampton Young in the 1850s. The current owner began
restoration in the early 1960s after the house was vacant for just over 50
years. He is in the antique business and has furnished the home with period
correct furniture and extensive collections of decorative objects. Reality however intruded as the temperatures
were lower inside than outside and the damp left plaster walls peeling.
Beautiful as this mansion is, life on the boat is more manageable for us.
Courtesy of Paul and
Amanda’s friend Taylor, we made a visit to the T6 flight simulator – where Julia
quickly crashed. Steve flew a little wobbly
and Patti Mitchell – a looper friend and former airline pilot – showed us all
how it is done by flying under the Hwy 50 Tenn-Tom bridge. We are all grateful
to Taylor for making this unique non-boating experience possible, but water
based travel will remain our first preference for now.
Finally, the gracious host
and hostess – Amanda and Paul and three couples, provided a scrumptious
Thanksgiving feast. The men handled the smoking and deep frying our main course
while the gals provided bountiful sides and desserts. We all had fun working together, and
Steve and I especially enjoyed the youthful energy of these lovely young
couples – our future is indeed in good hands!