The best 100 miles
of the Erie Canal – even with almost endless and torrential
rain!
The unseasonal rain has
continued but we moved on through locks 29 and 30 just in time to hear that
everything below lock 29 is now closed due to the flooding. Water in the canal
is 3 to 5 feet above normal and this in turn washes debris into the canal
making navigation hazardous. Rumor has
it that the locks MAY open next week – so again we dodged a major delay and
continue to move slowly west. While all
the hyperbole in the canal literature might make one suspicious that nothing
can be so great, we are here to say – they might have under-represented the
truth. In spite of the rain, we have
found this western section of the canal to be most enjoyable and worthy of all
the praise heaped on it by the local Chambers.
We are especially grateful to those Chambers for all the free stops with
clean showers and restrooms, plus convenient extras like pump outs and laundry
facilities. These free walls are also located in scenic towns with friendly and
welcoming people. A volunteer on the dock is the norm with information on the
local hot spots and maps, etc. In Brockport the volunteers alerted by the lift
bridge tender, greeted us on the dock IN THE RAIN! She helped with ropes and apologized for the
weather. With our time on the Erie Canal rapidly winding down, we are already
planning our next trip to catch the places we missed or revisit the high
points. For us, it is sad to think that so many who do the loop miss this
charming section of the canal with all the “PORT” and “classic” towns - Fairport, Spencerport, Brockport, Lockport,
Middleport, Gasport, Orangeport, Palmyra, Greece, and Medina.
Highlights:
Pittsford – free concerts in the
canal pavilion next to our boat on Fridays – lucky for us we stayed on a
Friday. Claim to fame – more than 50% of the housing in this town is more than
50 years old – most more like a 100+ years young.
oops - mule?
Spencerport – free concerts are on Sundays – sadly we stayed
on Saturday but did enjoy the Texas Barbeque adjacent to the dock and the
museum in an old restored trolley building.
Brockport – super independent book
store and a vintage movie theater a short walk from the canal befitting a
college town. We also caught the farmer’s
market on Sunday morning for fresh veggies and local wine. This town boasts
another heritage hardware store, Web Stull.
It is not mentioned in the guidebooks, but Steve made the discovery on
his own searching for wire and other doo-dads for ongoing boat projects. In the days of Lowes and Home Depot, it is
delightful to find the mom and pop hardware store still alive and full of dusty
nostalgia.
Albion – you know you are near Canada
when the only TV channel is in French and the best radio broadcasts are from
Toronto. The dock is downtown next to Main Street bordered by Victorian three
story store fronts in Medina sandstone. While we haven’t yet arrived at Medina,
we have seen plentiful evidence of the pinkish sandstone quarried there for
construction of houses, shops, churches and other public buildings lending this
area a substantial, European feeling. For entertainment our boat rested next to
the Police Station and the Fire Department of Albion – fortunately for us they
had a quiet night. When a call did go out, a herd of man-trucks invaded our
parking lot as the fire truck raced off. The volunteers must come from all over
the area and they don’t seem to car pool. It must have been a small “event”
since they soon returned and then spent a few hour visiting. Maybe it was all a
drill or an excuse to get out of the house on a sunny Sunday afternoon in time
to watch the NBA game?
Lockport – a cool, in every way, tour
of the hydro tunnel constructed in the mid 1800’s to power three factories and
two Erie Canal museums. Ice cream at the Great Lakes store was a treat. Not so
fun were the teens partying in the lock park until the wee hours. Parking next to the lock in the middle of this big
city was not our smartest move although it was a handy location for visiting
the classic car show and the historic flight of five locks.
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