Port Clyde and Monhegan Island

Port Clyde and Monhegan Island

Our first stop after heading south from the heavenly cruising grounds of Penobscot Bay was Port Clyde.  This is Linda Bean territory – she has supported the local economy with her general store, Wyeth Gallery and a restaurant as well as moorings for boaters like us. Most of the harbor is occupied by working lobster and fishing boats; however, the shore is ringed with homes – though picturesque many are approaching mansion status.  We walked to the lighthouse but were too early for the museum. We did stop at the local fish market on our way back for fresh crab cakes and flounder.  The master gardener on the edge of the village picked beets, beans and rhubarb for us – the whole lot at the bargain price of $4.

Afternoon break in the Port Clyde General Store

Monhegan Ferry Landing in Port Clyde

The next morning we caught the Monhegan Island Ferry. It was a good trick just to find the ferry in the fog, so we were glad to let another captain find the island located 10 miles off shore. Monhegan is a unique place for many reasons.

Most of Monhegan has been reclaimed from development and devoted to hiking trails although it is still a vibrant lobstering community.  However, they only set traps in the winter when they catch the hard shell lobster which bring a higher price.  The lobstermen also have a tradition of not setting their traps out until all the boats are ready to go.  If one fisherman is ill or has mechanical problems, the entire fleet will wait. 

We were told only 35 hardy folks spend the winter on the island.

In the summer, on the other hand, the village has become a bustling art colony with a tradition of hosting summer artists that reaches back to the 19^th century. Many examples of their work is on display in the lighthouse museum and galleries around town.  

The arts go well beyond just painters. This young fellow entertained us as we walked the town.

  

We spent the day walking a few trails – fortunately catching a few views from the Atlantic cliffs before the fog returned, hiking to the top of the light house where the views were again fog enshrouded, strolling the village streets, and relaxing with lunch in the Inn that provides a view of the foggy harbor.  A few galleries were also included in our tour and offered tempting selections – but with the serious artists charging serious prices we managed to return to our floating home without any more works of art for our crowded storage unit.

The island library has a sad story - it was founded in memory of two children lost in a boating tragedy. A nice way to keep their memory alive for the next generation.

Departing the island, ferry passengers are treated to another interesting tradition.  As the ferry pulls away, adventurous souls plunge from the dock into the chilly harbor waters.  Refreshing on a warm day – kind of crazy in the typical Maine weather.

Wandering in Maine’s Penobscot Bay again

Wandering in Maine’s Penobscot Bay again

Rather slowly we headed south with a few westerly detours to enjoy more of the nautical wonderland that is coastal Maine.  Leaving Mt Desert, we stopped in Frenchboro – a small island with a vibrant fishing community.  Most of the island is protected and laced with easy hiking trails offering views of the rocky shore and neighboring islands.  The locals also maintain a charming museum with artifacts of the islands history.

We spent several days in Seal Bay below Vinalhaven Island exploring the protected waters at low tide and even harvesting a few muscles.  It was a good place to hide from some unfriendly winds.

Heading west we stopped in a spacious anchorage behind Rams Island off Castine.  The friendly Dock Master in town took our trash for a mere $1.50 and also provided a handy dinghy dock for a walk in their town. Not every place takes trash as most of the places we have been visiting are islands where disposing of refuse is a major problem.  Also shore access that does not require getting our feet wet is an added incentive for a shore excursion.  We tried to show our appreciation by making a deposit in several local shopsJ

Blessed with favorable winds, we anchored off Searsport at the top of Penobscot Bay.  This anchorage is reportedly very rocky if the winds sweep up the bay, but we were lucky on our visit to enjoy a quiet night.  This allowed us to walk their Main Street and check out the local Hamilton Marine store, several antique malls and the impressive Penobscot Marine Museum. The museum is housed in a cluster of vintage buildings grouped along Church Street – so the nice weather enhanced our tour.  Their collection includes an impressive array of small boats – dories, canoes, and skiffs. The jaunty yellow sea captain’s house was decorated in 19^th century style and informed us that at one point 10% of all sailing captains called Searsport Home. Perhaps most impressive was the display of paintings on the second floor of the Merithew House. These ranged in size from tiny to massive depicting sailing ships in port and on the sea as well as in calm and stormy weather. 

EB White's sailing skiff from the museum collection.

Our last stop in the bay was Hurricane Island - first home to Outward Bound and a former stone quarry for the likes of the Metropolitan Gallery and NYC Public Library. Great hikes and scenic views make a wonderful place to spend a day and night.