On to Door County WI

On to Door County WI & South

Crossing the line from Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, we dropped the hook off School House Beach, Washington Island, WI – supposedly one of only 5 beaches without sand in the world.  Picking up any of the rocks on this beach is illegal so we admired it from the boat before moving on to Jackson Harbor and their docks.

Museum item of interest - suited to winter

Putting our bikes on the dock for the first time since Lewes, DE back in May, we made up for lost time and did a 10-mile ride for lunch in the Washington Island town center. This village has all the essentials if strung out and a bit far from the docks either at Jackson Harbor or Detroit Bay. It also has the famous Bitters Club - reputedly never closed even during prohibition - serving bitters as a restorative although it has a whopping high alcohol content!  Of course we joined the club in the famous Nelson's Hall building.

While in Jackson Harbor, we took the little Karfi Ferry to Rock Island at unique state park.  This island was owned by one man who had big plans but not much remains besides his boat house – an impressive structure fortunately now open as part of the park. Also, on the island is the Potawami Lighthouse – one of the first to be built in Wisconsin – although the structure is no longer in use – being replaced by a solar powered light – the home and light have been restored and are open for tours. The mile plus hike to the light and tour were well worth the effort even if it included some light rain.

Rock Island boat house

The island is wooded with most homes out of view and the commercial services discreetly confined to a small area. There is vibrant arts community here with a fabulous fiber arts store, nature centers, and performing art facility. Our stay included the annual Deaths Door BBQ competition which was packed with delicious eating options as well as crafts and music. For that event we moved over to an anchorage in Detroit Harbor and hitch hiked, walked and took the free Cherry Train to get to and return from the venue.

A surprise at the BBQ

After dragging ourselves away from Washington Island, we headed south to Door County proper with a stop in Sister Bay Marina. Just a taste of the crowds was enough plus some severe weather saw us anchoring off Nicolet Bay to dink over to Horseshoe island for a walk and then a few days off Chandler Island to sit out the weather. Next, we made stops at Fish Creek – ultra cute and Egg Harbor just a bit further south. Good eats in both places, but the unique White Gull Inn was a big hit for its décor as well as food. Enjoyed the story about Egg Harbor getting its name from a food fight - with eggs - since the first food item of choice was too valuable!

We finally made it to a marina in Sturgeon Bay where we caught their farmer’s market. Strolling the canal we learned the story of its construction - a short cut to save 150 miles and the dangerous waters of Death's Door - that passage between the mainland and Washington Island. 

canal cut to save 150 miles but only used twice a year now by the big boys

Fighting fog and impending windy weather, we eased our way into Manitowac for a couple nights over the holiday weekend. It was nice to find a town that actually shutdown all retail for a Labor Day holiday.  It did make shopping difficult, but window shopping was free and a great way to enjoy the cute town plus the maritime museum. 

just popped out of the fog on our arrival

so much fog we never saw the BADGER arrive or leave

a taste of home!  

less fog

Then it was on to Sheboygan with its river walk area for more good food and even a haircut. The friendly folks of Wisconsin make stops along the lake a delight even if the weather was foggy and/or windy.

a little less fog on our way to Sheboygan

A quick stop in Port Washington was rewarded with a visit to Bernie's meat market for some great bacon. 

Then it was on to Milwaukee where we spent three days enjoying this vibrant city.  We made several visits to Brady Street to visit the bakery and deli, walked the river path and lake shore, strolled the Art Festival in the Third Ward and soaked up the fun at the kite festival just off our dock.  

For a weekend, the docks were basically empty in this huge 400+ slip marina, but people flocked along the pathways enjoying the bursts of sunshine even with the blustery wind – perfect for the giant kites. The weekend climax was a late-night fireworks show – no one just sits around in Milwaukee.

Our last stop on the lake before Chicago was Racine, WI.  This seems to be the "Johnson’s" town and sleepy between weekends – makes for few shopping options, but time to catch up on this blog. (The Johnson Outdoor Store did tempt us to consider a kayak!) We also found lots of restaurants and beer parlors plus a great pub right in the marina. Finally, we enjoyed a chance to meet up with a few other loopers who were also making their way down the West side of Lake Michigan after Labor Day!

On to Chicago and the RIVERS SOUTH!

A Stinging Welcome Home

A Stinging Welcome Home

Checking back into the good old USA was high tech via the new ROAM app.  Steve called in and they responded with a video call on our Ipad.  Everything in order, we were given the entry numbers to verify our welcome home.  This is one step up from the telephone calls we have been making when returning to Florida from the Bahamas with the boater cards we have used the previous six years. The new system is now nationwide and makes our travels even smoother. Yeah for technology and computer apps!

However, a pesky bee added some sting to our first anchorage in the USA.  While dropping the dink off Harbor Island, Julia was stung on the thigh.  Sadly, she has more than the normal reaction, although fortunately not the serious anaphylactic shock kind, and the sting raged for more than a week. We managed to make stops at DeTour Village where a few supplies were had as well as a meal at the Mainsail restaurant.  The place was so laid back that we were the only customers for lunch!  We had excellent service and good Michigan beer as well.  A few days winding our way through the Les Cheneaux Islands with a shopping/lunch stop in Cedarville brought us to an anchorage off Hessel, MI.  Here we reconnected with our Aramco friends from Ras Tanura, Jeanette and Alan Kivela.  They have had a busy summer with travel to Newfound Land and Labrador then visits from grandchildren and children plus assorted other relatives and friends… We felt fortunate to arrive during a short break between visitors.  They generously took us to lunch where we talked non-stop to catch up. Friends from our Saudi days are special since we share such a connection with our 20 years there.  Alan and Jeanette also were also a part of our swim team family. It was wonderful to see them and get caught up on their travels and the current happenings with their children.  Sorry not many photos of us – all talking time, but we did visit them back in 2013 if you are curious. They have not aged a minute! Lots of boats, however, caught our camera eye.

From Hessel we crossed to Mackinaw City Municipal Marina for a side trip to see our good friends Marty and Suzanne. Although they have a gorgeous home on the Jordan Arm off Lake Charlevoix, they spend most of the year on their Krogen 48 which is currently in Grenada.  We first met them back in 2014 at the Krogen Rendezvous and traveled several times with them.  Following their blog and adventures since they left the states for parts south, we wanted to both see their MI home and pick their brains for our next adventure. They generously fit us into their summer – like the Kivelas, filled with family, friends and chores!  Marty also helped Steve procure a new AGM battery for our bow thruster and windless.  The battery has been dying which was seriously compromising the power in our thruster as well as the ability to pull the anchor.  Since we anchor out much of the time, getting the anchor up was a priority.  Hand cranking it was not high on Julia’s exercise wish list. (There are so many more interesting ways to get a little exercise.) Thanks to Marty’s help, we are full power on both the thruster and the windlass…. (of course, now we are in Western MI and WI where anchorages are scarce.) It was a treat to see Marty and Suzanne and finally see first hand the beautiful home they have created in this special part of Michigan. Nestled in the trees with a lake view their “cottage” appears secluded from neighbors although in reality there are homes nearby.  The location and construction are magic and a perfect compliment to winters in the Caribbean Islands.

On our trip down to East Jordan, we made stops at big box stores to stock up on those heavy supplies that boaters need but rarely have easy access to.  Our lists required multiple stops – never is everything in one place – and our needs include strange items like activated charcoal and snowflake buttons….  Surprisingly around Petoskey we found just about everything on our list and even some things that just jumped in the cart.

passing the glorious Machinac Island

free concert

cruising the ARM with Tucks

During our stay in Mackinaw City we also had time to walk the strip of this tourist town and enjoy a few meals off the boat.

From Mack City we had a great weather window to cross the northern end of Lake Michigan. Our overnight stop was in the Beaver Island chain – an anchorage opposite St James Harbor which we pretty much had to ourselves off Garden Island. 

From there we had good weather to stay on the hook off the tip of Garden Peninsula next to the tiny fishing village of Fairport.  We had good water depth so cut through the passage in front of the village and headed up to Garden Bay for the night.  This anchorage is wide open but in calm weather is great with the added bonus of a water view Dock Grill restaurant in the RV park.  Broiled Whitefish or a Walleye Wrap for lunch made this a perfect stop.

From there we headed back south for a few days at the ghost town Fayette state park.  This park preserves the mid 19^th Century town of Fayette where iron ore was processes until the wood for charcoal ran out. The once bustling town was basically abandoned to a few fishing families and was purchased in the mid 20^th Century as a state park. Today it is a fascinating walk through the life in the late 1800s. Homes from middle class families as well as workers are displayed along paths winding through the forest.  The hotel, school, meeting hall, foundry and other remnants of the businesses here have been restored and were also open. This location was originally chosen not just for the abundant forests nearby, but also for the deep protected harbor. This harbor is now a first-class mini-marina with water and power on spanking new finger docks for 14 boats.  We had it to ourselves with only a couple other boats. During the day this remote park was full of visitors who come by car.  We walked through the camp ground which was also a busy spot with tent and RV campers.  After the exhibits closed, however, the grounds once again had the eerie feel of the ghost town that it is.

fishing for a lost phone with our gear