On to Door County WI

On to Door County WI & South

Crossing the line from Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, we dropped the hook off School House Beach, Washington Island, WI – supposedly one of only 5 beaches without sand in the world.  Picking up any of the rocks on this beach is illegal so we admired it from the boat before moving on to Jackson Harbor and their docks.

Museum item of interest - suited to winter

Putting our bikes on the dock for the first time since Lewes, DE back in May, we made up for lost time and did a 10-mile ride for lunch in the Washington Island town center. This village has all the essentials if strung out and a bit far from the docks either at Jackson Harbor or Detroit Bay. It also has the famous Bitters Club - reputedly never closed even during prohibition - serving bitters as a restorative although it has a whopping high alcohol content!  Of course we joined the club in the famous Nelson's Hall building.

While in Jackson Harbor, we took the little Karfi Ferry to Rock Island at unique state park.  This island was owned by one man who had big plans but not much remains besides his boat house – an impressive structure fortunately now open as part of the park. Also, on the island is the Potawami Lighthouse – one of the first to be built in Wisconsin – although the structure is no longer in use – being replaced by a solar powered light – the home and light have been restored and are open for tours. The mile plus hike to the light and tour were well worth the effort even if it included some light rain.

Rock Island boat house

The island is wooded with most homes out of view and the commercial services discreetly confined to a small area. There is vibrant arts community here with a fabulous fiber arts store, nature centers, and performing art facility. Our stay included the annual Deaths Door BBQ competition which was packed with delicious eating options as well as crafts and music. For that event we moved over to an anchorage in Detroit Harbor and hitch hiked, walked and took the free Cherry Train to get to and return from the venue.

A surprise at the BBQ

After dragging ourselves away from Washington Island, we headed south to Door County proper with a stop in Sister Bay Marina. Just a taste of the crowds was enough plus some severe weather saw us anchoring off Nicolet Bay to dink over to Horseshoe island for a walk and then a few days off Chandler Island to sit out the weather. Next, we made stops at Fish Creek – ultra cute and Egg Harbor just a bit further south. Good eats in both places, but the unique White Gull Inn was a big hit for its décor as well as food. Enjoyed the story about Egg Harbor getting its name from a food fight - with eggs - since the first food item of choice was too valuable!

We finally made it to a marina in Sturgeon Bay where we caught their farmer’s market. Strolling the canal we learned the story of its construction - a short cut to save 150 miles and the dangerous waters of Death's Door - that passage between the mainland and Washington Island. 

canal cut to save 150 miles but only used twice a year now by the big boys

Fighting fog and impending windy weather, we eased our way into Manitowac for a couple nights over the holiday weekend. It was nice to find a town that actually shutdown all retail for a Labor Day holiday.  It did make shopping difficult, but window shopping was free and a great way to enjoy the cute town plus the maritime museum. 

just popped out of the fog on our arrival

so much fog we never saw the BADGER arrive or leave

a taste of home!  

less fog

Then it was on to Sheboygan with its river walk area for more good food and even a haircut. The friendly folks of Wisconsin make stops along the lake a delight even if the weather was foggy and/or windy.

a little less fog on our way to Sheboygan

A quick stop in Port Washington was rewarded with a visit to Bernie's meat market for some great bacon. 

Then it was on to Milwaukee where we spent three days enjoying this vibrant city.  We made several visits to Brady Street to visit the bakery and deli, walked the river path and lake shore, strolled the Art Festival in the Third Ward and soaked up the fun at the kite festival just off our dock.  

For a weekend, the docks were basically empty in this huge 400+ slip marina, but people flocked along the pathways enjoying the bursts of sunshine even with the blustery wind – perfect for the giant kites. The weekend climax was a late-night fireworks show – no one just sits around in Milwaukee.

Our last stop on the lake before Chicago was Racine, WI.  This seems to be the "Johnson’s" town and sleepy between weekends – makes for few shopping options, but time to catch up on this blog. (The Johnson Outdoor Store did tempt us to consider a kayak!) We also found lots of restaurants and beer parlors plus a great pub right in the marina. Finally, we enjoyed a chance to meet up with a few other loopers who were also making their way down the West side of Lake Michigan after Labor Day!

On to Chicago and the RIVERS SOUTH!