Dominica the Nature Island

Dominica – the nature island

Dominica is the perfect stop between the tempting treats of the French islands – Guadalupe and Martinique. Not that there aren’t “treats” on Dominica, fortunately, they generally contain less refined sugar. Although it is called the “Nature Island” it could also be called the “Garden Island”.  Fruit and edible plants grow just about everywhere.  We took several “tours” – more accurately “endurance treks” with local guides both in Portsmouth in the north and Rosseau in the south. (Our first with Martin was only 8 hours and the second with Octavius – better known as Sea Cat – was 9 hours.) Along the route between stops the guides would screech to a stop along the narrow winding road, jump out and “harvest” something to taste. 

These included items never before seen to peel and sample – as well as the more familiar. 

One guide gave us cacao straight from the pod to suck on but the other took us to the Pointe Baptiste Chocolate Factory where we saw all the steps that convert the fresh cocoa to eating chocolate.  Yes, it included generous tasting and the opportunity to buy some for the boat. (After these tours we deserved it!  

At one point a fellow group member suggested that the guides should perhaps be paying us to go on these trips!) Our 8-hour trip started with a look at a rustic Bay Leaf distillery.  Who knew that bay leaf oil was so useful and that extracting the oil was done commercially? We made a stop to tour a local garden and learn about typical plants and how to carry loads - on our heads!

thankfully my load was small

On our next stop we hiked into the Cold Soufriere – cold water bubbling from a deep volcano. This is most unusual since most of the water that bubbles here is warm to hot. There was a pool but we pressed on and did not swim there although it is reputed to be a mineral rich healthy place for a dip.

 

learning about fern spores - tattoos

Dominica has nine volcanoes and the entire Caribbean has only 16 in total, so it is no wonder that water bubbles in many places here in the water as well as on land.

At a beach stop for local drinks and dominoes we got a peak at the Atlantic side of the island and the red rocks which we visited after our lunch break.

The red rocks are impressive mounds colored by the iron rich soil and eroding with the effects of rain, wind, and ground water. They pose a distinct contrast to the lush green of the surrounding hills, cliffs and peaks.

colorful plantings lined most roads - all local effort

Finally, we arrived at the Pointe Baptiste chocolate factory. This tiny operation is the brain child of Alan Napier – grandson of the estate founders, Elma and Lennox. He began the project mainly because he missed good eating chocolate when he moved to Dominica.  Cacao has been a traditional crop here and used locally in a semi-processed form. These rolls of chocolate have not been ground finely and tempered or mixed with sugar to create an eating style chocolate but they are readily available in the market. Grated and added to milk or water with a little spice and sugar they make a very traditional hot chocolate drink. Alan Napier who gave us the tour of his operation has gradually developed his operation to include state of the art grinders, ovens, and a tempering machine.  All of this plus the drying sheds are tucked into a colorful corner of his grandparents’ estate. Martin even took me for a peek at the original “cottage” that his grandparents built – although much restored from hurricane damage.  The lush gardens surrounding it make this an ideal vacation hideaway and fortunately it is available to rent! (The perfect vacation next to a chocolate factory, above a beautiful beach on an idyllic island.)

  

                                  

                                 

On our way back to the shore we stopped for a swim – a short hike into a pond that Martin told us would take 10 years off our age.  This is one reason the locals are so healthy and live to great ages.  (The oldest recorded person recently died here at the age of 126.) The hike, however, on slippery rocks – probably took back those 10 years in my case.

passing the ruins of a distillery on our way to the "pond" of youth

Portsmouth is a unique place for boaters.  They have organized to assist boats as they round the corner of the Cabrits until they depart the bay.  Most boats are greeted by a colorfully painted skiff with a waving hello!  We had arranged for Martin Providence to assist us and he came out to guide us to one of the PAYS moorings suitable for our boat. Then he graciously presented a huge bouquet of local flowers and greens while we discussed what tours and “help” we might need.  

The PAYS group offer to take away trash and get laundry done as well as organize island tours to popular destinations.  Besides the full day tour Martin took us on a paddle up the Indian River – we opted to go in the morning in hopes of seeing birds – so our stop at the bar in the jungle was without rum punch but Martin took time to create origami like birds with rain forest leaves.  And, we stopped to watch a green backed heron on her nest.

Although we didn’t need a guide, we enjoyed our tour of the local market on Saturday morning.  This bounty of local fruits and veggies snakes along three streets overflowing the small covered market area along the fish dock. Steve stood in line at the fish market but all the fish was sold before he worked his way to the front. 8 Eastern Caribbean dollars for a kilo of Mahi – less than $3 US for 2+ pounds!

Mother’s Day found us at a potluck BBQ with 16 other boaters on shore at the PAYS pavilion. A good chance to share plans and here stories on the adventures of fellow boaters.

One afternoon we walk/hiked up to the restored Fort Shirley which overlooks the harbor in Portsmouth on the Cabrits.  This was a British fort to defend the island from the French. During the early years of colonization, the island was controlled at different times by both the French and British, but in the end the Brits prevailed so English is the official language and cars drive on the left.  However, many place names hearken back to the French domination.  The island is now independent and has controlled its own destiny since 1978. Sadly, they have also been a frequently a target of major hurricanes – most recently in 2017 – Maria damaged 95% of the island roofs. Amazingly the green has returned although evidence of the destruction is still easily seen with damaged buildings, beheaded palms, and trees with loped off limbs.

The way of life is pretty basic but there were lots of smiles and friendly faces in spite of still recovering from the devastation brought by Maria. We were told unemployment is high – some work off the island during the summer low tourist season – but food is plentiful and there for the picking.

We finally moved south to the capital city, Rosseau where Octavius (Sea Cat)’s crew got us a mooring and whisked us off to tour the south. 

Although there are dinghy docks – many were damaged by the storm, so the water taxis picked us up and delivered us back to our boat.  Our dinghy stayed on the boat!

catching a ride with Martin just like Sea Cat in Rosseau

With Sea Cat we made another whirlwind tour – including an hour-long hike around a lake, a swim through a slot cannon, lunch, a vertical climb up Trafalgar Falls for a dip in the HOT Water at the top, then a few more stops to see the bubbling springs at Wooten Waven and view the sunset from the cliffs above town. Sea Cat’s skill as a guide of the geriatric was tested as he monitored my every step and literally pulled me up and nudged me back down the falls – but the soak in the hot pool was worth the effort. (Big slippery rocks are not my thing.)

On both of our tours we were part of a small group.  The high season ends with April so numbers are lighter now and we enjoyed small groups – there were 6 of us on the tour with Martin – two sailing vessels that came directly to the islands from Norfolk with the North American ARC rally. With Sea Cat we were 5 – a group of three from a catamaran who have sailed around the world with another ARC rally. So, on both trips our time in the car was almost as interesting as our stops as we heard stories from these adventurous sailors. 

the reason they took this hike without me!

push, pull, lift

Our final day in Dominica was just a little more relaxing – we started with a three-hour wander in the old town – to see the museum, craft market, IGA and Fresh Market grocery stories and enjoy the ambiance of the town – without any cruise ship traffic. This was easy since the water taxi dropped us on the wharf and picked us up. 

In the afternoon Steve went diving with Diver Don and I snorkeled with Bean – we visited the bubbles and cannons and the reef still recovering from the storm of 2017. To end the afternoon, we sat in the hot water pool created by an entrepreneur along the shore to capture the natural hot spring water bubbling up into the sea. Oh yes, he also serves delightful rum drinks to enjoy while soaking away the aches in tired muscles.

the happy Mr Bean!

With a few stiff joints we headed out early to return once again to the French Caribbean – this time in Martinique.

On to the Beautiful Butterfly Island - Guadeloupe & her sister islands

On to the Beautiful Butterfly Island - Guadeloupe

With kind seas we made the 50ish miles to Deshaies on Guadeloupe in good time.  Checking in is easy at the local Police station.  They provide a computer where we fill out the form – the same system as we had on St Marten, so on the advice of our friend Fiona, we took our old form and used it to answer all the questions. (I did forget to mention that the keyboard is not our standard – so extra care and attention are required in typing!) The form is printed for free and the nice policeman checked our documents – passports and boat papers to make us legal.  They gave us a copy and sent us on our way.  During this process Steve set his hat down and forgot to retrieve it; however, it was still there when we returned the next day.  As we came through the door in the morning, we heard the policemen say “hat, hat” in French – since they must have recognized Steve and knew what he was coming in to recover.  The hat was still on the desk with the computer – the best place to forget things is a police station, I guess.

We wandered the short strip in town and visited several shops – the wine shop for French box wine, the grocery for fresh veggies, and the bakery for treats!  

Our wake up call - we were in the way of these fishermen

Instead of asking us to move, they worked around us

so carefully that the man in the water pushed their boat away from ours

After retrieving the “hat” we moved a few miles further south to the Pigeon Island area.  Our anchorage was south of the main mob and off a local hot spring fed tub.  In the morning, we plugged the drain with a bag of sand – handily provided by the regulars, and waited an hour or so for the water to fill enough for a warm soak.  This is a special treat for boaters without a tub – we finally left this oasis when some locals arrived to fill their water jugs from the spigot!  

Steve's haul on the beach while the tub filled

This stop also provided access to another bakery and a large Carrefour Supermarket where we restocked essentials.

Taking advantage of the light winds we headed across to the Saints – a group of islands also belonging to France so not checking in or out was required. The stretch protected by Guadeloupe was dead calm, but the seas got confused and choppy when we rounded the end of the island and headed across the channel.  

Fortunately, this is a rather short leg and we were safely on a mooring off Cabrit by 11 AM.  The light rains even took a break while we threaded our lines and launched the dink, so we didn’t even get wet. The moorings are kind of interesting. Rather than picking up a line with a float, we had to thread our lines through a large metal loop attached to the mooring.  Our bow is a long way from the water and this ball/loop, so dangling the line and snagging it with a boat hook was delicately achieved rather awkwardly on the first rope and more gracefully on the second.  Fortunately, our friends had warned us of this procedure which helped, but practice was useful. While hooked up we watched several charters and others also practice with these unique moorings and most of them are far closer to the loop than we are! Moorings are a good thing – they save the reefs and corals, allow more boats in deeper water to anchor in a small space, and are easy to release when it is time to depart.  The small price charged is well worth these advantages.  Most of the time, we don’t even have to pay on shore as an attendant comes and collects by boat!

We spent four nights in The Saints and managed several uphill walks to forts – Fort Napoleon on Terre de Haut – the main island is a lovely museum and expansive well- preserved fortification. 

The other is the much smaller on the hill overlooking our anchorage – Fort Josephine. 

The exercise was necessary since excellent French meals are available in beach front restaurants. The small strip of “town” is easily accessible from the secure dinghy dock. 

A few vehicles run around – electric golf carts, small cars, scooters and electric bicycles – but most of the traffic is two legged. 

Lots of tourists come here on ferries that also provide much entertainment to those on the dock and in the harbor. The arrivals and departures are accompanied by mini “crowds” on the main ferry dock which is off the town square. Several charming shops are here also since this quaint island has been home to many skilled artist and artisans. Just window shopping is a pleasure.  We did find essentials in the two grocery stores for the meals we were not tempted to eat on shore as well as a bakery. The local specialty tart was available from vendors along the main street. 

Only two islands in the group called The Saints, are occupied which is not surprising given the paucity of level land on these steep, lush pinnacles.  Fishing was the traditional occupation and so without major agriculture, no slaves were ever imported. As many others boaters have noted –  a stop in The Saintes is a high point of Eastern Caribbean cruising.

Marie Galante, our next stop, is quite a contrast.  This is a large but relatively low island that lends itself to many types of agriculture.  Several “towns” dot the shore – the largest is Grand Bourg which we visited on our car tour. The narrow streets are crowded with closely packed two-story homes and businesses. Much is painted in colorful Caribbean colors. 

The spice market was an especially colorful and aromatic spot. 

Another small town is Capesterre fringed with reefs that protect the shore and make it a popular spot for windsurfing. However, we made Saint Louis our base, a small town with a large protected anchorage.  

The shops are mostly for locals with a few restaurants on the beach for tourists – ferries visit here as well as Grand Bourg but the arrivals disappear quickly.  A new and well-stocked U Express grocery story is a short walk out of town and well worth the effort. (I bought local cane sugar for $1) 

There is a nice bakery just at the end of the dock for those early morning chocolate croissants. We rented a car here to tour about and visit the other towns, the parks and a rum distillery.The Distillerie Bellevue was an interesting stop – while the gift shop was a tad over-priced, (They charged $12 for the sugar I bought at the grocery store.) they do open their works to tours – self guided – with complete display boards to explain the process from crushing the sugar cane to producing the final rum. The compound also includes a traditional windmill previously used to crush the cane and the remains of earlier processing equipment. The aromas coming off the mash tanks made us a little homesick for our time in Saudi.  

The views of the cane fields were also spectacular – especially since we lucked into some good weather after a day of non-stop rain.

Before reaching Grand Bourg, we stopped at the Habitation Murat – a former sugar cane estate which is now an open-air park. There are two mill types, the windmill tower and the circle used by donkeys or horses to crush cane. Ruins of the extensive production factory remain and the family home has been restored as a museum with interesting artifacts of life on Marie Galante. 

Agriculture is still very much a way of life here as we passed loaded cane trucks, saw lots of domestic animals, and admired the lush green foliage of this tropical paradise. 

While tourism is definitely part of the economy, it seemed that it was not the main driver nor as intrusive as in other places we have visited.  Life here for most people goes on whether there are tourists or not. Kind of refreshing for a change!

Back north to Gaudeloupe and Pointe-a-Pitre on Grand Terre. Steve’s broken tooth needed more attention so we got to revisit the main island. Again our stop here was a big contrast to the sweet back water of Marie Galante – we were greeted by this car carrier on our arrival in the mooring field.

our view of the traffic from our anchorage

However, it was easy to spend a few days in this anchorage opposite the marina and town of Pointe-a-Pitre.  Great bakeries were a short walk from the dinghy docks as well as several grocery stores and lots of restaurant options.  Several good chandleries and even a fishing supply store to replace the line stolen on our crossing. (lots of fishing and not much catching)  We enjoyed several trips to the old part of town with its classic Caribbean style.  The market was always bustling with fresh produce and madras clad ladies selling their wares.  Some were more “shy” than others.

We both got haircuts by this father and son team and Steve endured a few hours in fabric and notions shops. 

All a major shift from the smaller towns and touristy stops.  Tooth all mended – at least temporarily – and with a window of relative calm – we headed further south....although it was hard to leave the delivery of morning croissants.