On to the Volcanoes - SABA

On to the Volcanoes - SABA

Our first stop was the Dutch island of Saba.  Very few cruisers visit here since getting to shore can be challenging as well as finding a comfortable anchorage.  The volcanic island comes straight out of the water giving the residents precious little level land and almost zero on the calmer lee side. For hundreds of years cargo had to be ferried to shore in small boats on the rare calm days and then carried up the steep “ladder” steps carved into the hillside. 

We caught a mooring just off this ladder but fortunately nowadays there is a tiny harbor on the south-side with some protection from the surge where the dinghy, ferries and cargo ships can safely dock.  

Much of the water around this steep volcanic island is a protected marine preserve.  Diving here is controlled and must be done with one of the local dive shops.  We lucked into some relatively calm winds and Steve arranged to be picked up for a couple dives.  Since most of the good dive sites are on the lee side, Steve did not have to make the relatively rough run into the harbor, the dive boat picked him up from our mooring!   Steve reports that the pinnacles here are the best diving he has done in the Caribbean. These tall structures are alive with fish and the corals were spared the damage from recent hurricanes.

We did brave the longish, damp dinghy ride to the Fort Bay dock for a tour and hike.  The killer hike is not long in miles but steep – over 1000 stairs – to reach the 2800+ peak. Fortunately, with our hiking sticks to help, we made the 3 hour round trip and returned for lunch and pastries at the Busy B shop in Windwardside.  

The island has two main towns – the Bottom and Windwardside. The Bottom is a steep run up from the docks at Fort Bay and is the first hint of the charm to be found here on Saba.  By law, all buildings on Saba are painted white with green trim and have red roofs. This creates unique and pleasing views from the twisty road. 

This is “The Road Which Could Not Be Built”. For hundreds of years there were only tracks on Saba connecting the villagers here. Back in the mid-1900s engineers from the Netherlands told the residents that a road could not be built for them.  However, one resident, Joseph Lambee Hassel, did not take that answer and taught himself the engineering skills needed to build a road for Saba. Today it is THE ROAD which still twists and turns as it winds around the steep sides of Mt Scenery. 

These intrepid islanders also built an airport when again the Dutch thought it not possible, so today Saba has both a road and an airstrip. The population is small here but the people were very friendly and we enjoyed our road tour with Cornelius and his Cool Cab.

Although scenic beaches are rare here, excellent hiking paths offer endless (if sometimes strenuous) entertainment.  There is also a large medical university in the Bottom which brings students from all over the world to study here on this charming island.

Many years ago, one resident brought the art of lace making back from a trip to Venezuela and taught it to her friends.  So, we had to visit the shop selling their lace to support this beautiful island industry.

We also heard that a new breakwater is in the works which sadly may make this another stop for the massive cruise ships which dump tourists by the thousands on so many of these islands. 

For now, Saba is a remote and special place enjoyed by locals, visited by only very small ships, tourists who stay in the small resorts, and the expat retirees who have discovered this island paradise.

Evidence of our track here and why moorings are helpful