Virgins Part 2

Virgins Part 2  getting way behind- will post photos later

Doctors seemed to control our schedule!  While waiting for a follow up appointment, we wandered over to the British Virgins making many of the popular charter boat stops.  It seems everywhere in the BVI the ubiquitous charters flood the anchorages.  Only one night were we charter free – in White Bay behind Peter Island – only us, a cruising sailing vessel (Canadian), one mega yacht and one mega sailing vessel off in the distance.  The beach was open to visitors, but only the beach.  With no bars or restaurants – the charter boats gave this a pass.  Fortunately for the mega yacht, Steve was able to capture their runaway ski boat – this yacht carried two smaller boats – but their second boat was off with guests when the ski boat drifted away. They rewarded him with a six pack of beer and many thanks!

Along with hundreds of charters we hit the high spots –

Sopers Bay/West End to check in with the officials and pay our fees. Still a lot of hurricane damage there.

Cane Garden Bay – still recovering but lively and with a well- stocked grocery plus the Rum Distillery –

White Bay on Jost Van Dyke – to have lunch at the Soggy Dollar. They had a snapfish book of the hurricane destruction and their quick (4 month) rebuild.  The rest of the island’s recovery seemed spotty – major restaurants were up and running 18 months later, but many, many homes were ruins.

A night at the east end of JVD – on the hook for some snorkeling but never alone.

Over to Norman and lunch at the restaurant there that has been rebuilt even more upscale than before. While the food was excellent and priced like everywhere else, the drinks were the same price as the entrees.  It seems big boats drop guests for the afternoon and the restaurant makes it money on their consumption of beverages which includes the use of the beach and its amenities. The mooring field filled up by early afternoon with the charters many of whom dinked into the restaurant for dinner.  Apparently, the charters seek places where dinner can be found on shore.

We saw the same at Great Harbour on Peter and again at Cooper Island Beach Club. The Willy T a floating restaurant that used to be an old logging boat – now rebuilt after Irma as a barge is the main attraction here. It is kind of a floating Spring Break Bar – traditionally visitors enjoy their food and drink then jump off the back of the boat from the second story to cool off.

Much more up UP scale is the Cooper Island Beach Club.  This development was in excellent polish seemingly fully recovered from the ravages of 2017. The complex includes several hotel rooms and restaurants. Also, some of the best dinghy docks offered again making it easy for boaters to enjoy dinner ashore.

Provisions were less available, however. The main business here is charter boats – either power cats or sail, plus a few monohulls, and, we figured they are out to have a wonderful vacation free of catering chores like cooking.

Just a few words about charters: Much of our entertainment in these packed mooring fields came from watching the antics on charters. Picking up mooring ball lines is an art form not many charter crew members have mastered. We watched many boats make pass after pass with the boat approaching too fast and from the wrong direction while the helmsman berated his crew for missing the line. Eventually most boats did catch the line and managed to get safely tied for the night.  Once we even saw a hardy sailor approach and attempt to grab a mooring under sail. We figured he was having engine problems, and after at least three failed attempts he finally retreated to deeper water and dropped his anchor.

On the other hand, we had to respect a group of 8 to 10 folks who would be brave enough to charter a boat together. On even a 50-foot catamaran it must be cozy. There is an almost frantic energy among these folks – eager to enjoy every second of their time in the sun. Boats came equipped with blow-up flamingo floats, paddle boards, kayaks, and floating noodles to help the guests enjoy their floating vacations. Most we talked to were taking a break from the snowy North East, but some even traveled from the icy regions of the Mid West. No wonder they were out soaking up rays from dawn to dusk.  Most were respectful of the close neighbors in these crowded anchorages, but one memorable group insisted on blasting everyone with their choice of music, college songs, and raucous laughter into the wee hours. We guessed they were on a college reunion trip – reliving a wild youth – sadly at the expense of the boaters around them.

Fortunately, in spite of the packed anchorages, most nights things quieted down and fellow boaters managed to enjoy the stars without intrusions from others.

We thought this was all good entertainment until we talked to that Canadian sailing vessel over in the isolated anchorage.  Twice their bow pulpit had been damaged by charter boats. After hearing their stories, we watched the charters more carefully, only relaxing when it was clear a charter captain was in charge.

Taking a break from the frenetic charter scene in the BVI we returned to St Thomas so Steve could once again see a doctor.  Fortunately this trip brought good news – he had managed to crack his patella back in December – probably while changing out that pesky water pressure tank. It had taken numerous visits, x-rays, and blood work to reach this positive conclusion.  The alternatives were grim since at one point there was concern his new knee was infected and might need to be replaced. With this relative clean bill of health, we headed back to the BVI.

On this second pass, we made stops at the famous Foxy’s on Jost Van Dyke, White Bay on Guana Cay hoping for a quiet a spot but finding yet another busy mooring field, Pusser’s Marina Cay – still recovering from Irma, and finally Leverick Bay in North Sound on Virgin Gorda.  This area was also destroyed by Irma, but the resort at Leverick Bay has largely been rebuilt and hosts a lively show for the boaters almost every night. Fortunately, we did not even have to leave the boat to enjoy the fun.

A weather window, although short and less than perfect, was appearing so we headed to Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda to check out and crossed over night to St Martin – a lumpy 100 miles but nothing to bother Teddy. The delightful treats of the French St Martin more than aided our recovery.