Erben Renewal: The America’s Cup Village and the AC RACES

apology and excuses - we have been without Wifi strong enough to post and too lazy to carry the computer to shore.... we will catch up on our Bermuda trip and the island wanderings...

The America’s Cup Village and the AC RACES

The primary focus of our Bermuda adventure was the America’s Cup sailing races. Over our two-week stay we spent five days in the AC Village. After nearly succumbing to heat stroke on our first visit, we wised up to the strategies used by locals to survive the heat and still enjoy the races and surrounding events. From our anchorage in St George Harbour we took a fast ferry to the village venue on the opposite end of the island. The ferries on the weekend left from a convenient location opposite the town dinghy dock. (A good trick at times just finding a spot on that dock with the flood of boats in the harbor!)

view on arrival at DOCKYARDS venue

We learned after our first trip that the smart move is to take the early ferry – 10:15 departure – which landed about 11 in time to be nearly the first folks through the gates when they opened – around 11:30. (Bermudians seem to have a similar attitude to time as we have seen in the Florida Keys and Bahamas. All times are approximate and subject to change.) On our first trip and in our ignorance of the logistics and size of the crowds, we figured to save our exposure to the heat by taking the later ferry which arrived shortly before the racing would begin… WRoNG! The place was packed, all the food /beverage lines were LONG, LONG, LOOOOONG and SLOW! (also the wait meant standing in the direct sun!) Most important there was nowhere with shade to sit in. We did prop ourselves along a wall with a breeze and a bit of shade and a view of the big screens but by the end of the races we were knackered.

viewing intermission youth races

Sadly for the American team – Oracle – the racing did not go well either. They were soundly trounced by the Kiwis on Team Emirates New Zealand. The American errors, in contrast to the flawless performances by the challengers, pretty much summed up all the races with one exception. However, there was more to the village experience than the mostly one-sided racing. After we learned the trick of arriving early, exiting first, and rushing to the entrance line all to snag a table with shade we could relax and savor all treats on offer. The venue was built out on a man-made peninsula with views of the races and/or the boat docks from every side. Around the race side were grandstands, and special event pavilions – providing views, lunches and even air conditioned spaces all for a hefty premium. There was access to the wall for viewing the races but mostly we stayed in the shade of our umbrella-ed table and watched the racing action on the BIG screens. Food and drink concessions ringed the interior of the venue providing a taste of local favorites like barbecued brisket, fish sandwiches, curries and even sushi and salads. The drinks were heavy on Rum Swizzles and Dark and Stormies – local originals. Water stations were free and plentiful and the spotless restrooms discretely hidden and air conditioned.

Before the main event of the daily races, the crowds were entertained by local acts – dance troops, DJs, and bands. We even enjoyed a Gombey Parade – more on that later. The venue also provided a Crown and Anchor tent for those interested in a little gambling action – Bermuda style. More on that later as well. Several large exhibit areas were set up to display elements of the racing style currently in use on the AC boats. There were grinders, and ropes participants could use to test their skills. The play area for children also had a sailing theme. Between the main races most days we enjoyed watching the Endeavor boats with 30 international youth sailors, race and demonstrate sailings skills in development.

Of course, there was a store with all the official America’s Cup gear – the standard clothing to tote bags and pillows. Since we hung around until the end – we did most of our shopping when they marked the merchandise down by 50%.

After the races each day we wandered over to watch the big cranes lift the boats and the crowds welcome their “boys”. The ballet of a well-oiled team was a pleasant way to end our day before catching the ferry back to St Georges.

Still the actual races and teams were the main attraction. The big screens did a great job of showing the racing action – using graphics to illustrate just how far team Oracle had to catch up or how much time they lost when they dug a tip…. Once we learned the trick of getting a table we ended up among the families of Team New Zealand and although they were enthusiastically cheering their boys, they always maintained an admirable attitude of good sportsmanship. After chatting with families on both sides we had a lot of respect for the work these teams have put in and the personal sacrifices that were made to reach this level of performance. Sadly for Oracle, the New Zealanders had the faster boat and better control over it than the Americans. Although Oracle stripped their boat during the five-day break and found some speed, they seemed to be struggling to master the changes. One race gave us hope – when the Americans managed to win if only by 11 seconds. The back and forth of that one race was the only neck-in-neck competition of the entire series. Overall however, the winds were not in favor of Team Oracle as they were inconsistent over the race course and generally much lighter than the Americans would have liked. For the last race we had seats in the grand stands – a lovely cooling breeze and shade – but not the racing outcome we had hoped for. Although the Oracle team finally was ahead at the first buoy, the Kiwis soon took the lead and won their seventh point handily finishing right in front of us.

Having little experience with sailboat racing and next to no knowledge of these high-performance craft, we enjoyed watching the spectacle of the 35^th America’s Cup. Kudos to the folks in Bermuda and the America’s Cup organizers for the outstanding experience. Everything from crowd control, security, menu options and transportation were provided to a high standard. The racing was showcased to perfection and made accessible for all – from the novice to professional. Hats off to all involved for a job well done!