Bahama
Time
Excuses,
excuses, excuses….. the last two months have slipped by and we are well and
truly on Bahama Time, Mon.
Just
a few notes to catch up and some pics for those who want to see more than read
about our adventures.
Bitter Guana Cay - Iguana habitat |
Friends
old and new have sprinkled our travels this season and we are very grateful for
their kindnesses. After leaving Highborne Cay, we spent a few nights
with Tim and Diane among several other boats off the Normans where we explored
several exposed and protected anchorages before heading further south to the
Land and Sea Park at Warderick Wells.
After weathering another blow we scooted
down to Cambridge for another week hiding from weather in this protected part
of the park. Steve used the time to
refinish the pilot house floor between snorkeling and diving excursions or
walks on the beach. After a brief stop
at Staniel Cay for a grocery run and propane refill, we headed to Black Point
Settlement so we could visit the laundry with a view. This all-purpose operation includes laundry,
haircuts, and sweet treats with a smile from Ida the cheerful owner. Again we
were beset by high winds fortunately from the northeast – a direction from
which we had a little protection – but then not much is protected when winds
exceed 40 knots. On the first of 4 or 5
nights of winds we had a major disaster – at least a major inconvenience. Our NEW AB RIB ate its painter (that’s the
rope which should tie her to the mother ship.)
The next morning was not a happy one when we discovered no dink behind
the boat. Now this is our car and only
vessel to get to shore which is essential in the Bahamas since docks for the
big boat are few and far between.
Without the dink we would have been marooned on our floating home if it were
not for the kindness of fellow boaters. These find folks came out of the waves
to help us even getting us on shore during the blow and for days after, ferrying us to docktails and delivering brownies to keep our spirits up. Recovering the wandering dink was pretty a much hopeless proposition since a
quick glance at the charts shows nothing much South East of Black Point until
Cuba – we are hoping some lucky soul will recover her and enjoy the bounty
since she was well stocked with radio, depth sounder, dive gear and other
miscellaneous essentials. Steve
immediately got busy trying to replace on the local market all the stuff we
would need to continue. Luckily we knew
motors were available in Georgetown and with a quick call he reserved the only
one in the store. We had to show up in Goergetown by
the end of the next week to get it, however.
Then he found only two dinghy boats in the stores in Nassau – one was only 8
feet (we lost a 10.5 footer) and a 13 footer.
Magically – read many multiple phone calls - the dink made it onto the mail boat to meet
the motor in Georgetown about the time we would get there. Mind – there was at least 5 days of very
windy weather which impeded our travel schedule as well as those mail boats. We
arrived in Georgetown a mere hour and half before they closed on the last day
we had to close the sale on the motor.
The motor dealer had also retrieved our new giant dink from the delivery
boat and we were once again able to get on and off Erben Renewal at will.
Water Taxi taking Steve to shore to meet his new dink and motor:
Steve had to spend 10 hours running the new motor around the harbor in Georgetown
which he used to break it in and visit every marine shop along the harbor to
replenish his missing gear and those essential toys (tools).
One trip into town rewarded us with a local festival - good eats and music:
Also,
after hours and hours online – and tons of our Bahama data (which thankfully is
much cheaper this year than ever before) – Steve has managed to not only
replace the essentials but also start the complex insurance claim process. Just
to complicate things further our old Iphone case leaked and drowned; the phone =
hotspot. Fortunately, Batel Co. has a convenient office in Georgetown and a
spiffy replacement was had for a mere 50$ which kept us connected until the new
phone arrived. All of this has kept Steve
more than busy while we waited for our first guests.
Paul
and Amanda arrived – first off their flight and nearly first through customs
for a week in the sun. Sadly, the winds
limited the traveling we could do, but they were delightful and easy to
entertain even though we were unable to show them everything. Catching a BIG
Mahi Mahi, a lobster, spearing various other fishand a few conchs may have helped.
They got in a diving day and lots of walks,
runs, and snorkels. It was great fun to
just sit around and watch the sunset.
Just about any place with sun and warm water must be welcome after a
Seattle winter.
Our
next batch of guests arrived a few days after we said goodbye to Paul and
Amanda.
Jim and Greg are longtime friends from our time in Saudi whose wives
agreed to let them spend some time with us in the Exumas – just about the best
wives going! The boys lucked into nearly
perfect weather so we ran back up to Cambridge and showed them the highlights
there, then stopped to visit the famous pigs at Staniel Cay and dove the
Thunderball Grotto, fished off White Point, hiked to the cave behind Oven Rock and
walked the shores of Lee Stocking Cay where Amanda and Paul anchored with us
during their stay. Fun and frolics in between!
We ended up in Emerald Bay Marina – just for a water stop
but decided to stay for the Monday Nite “Happier Hour” and access to a TV for
the NCAA final game. (We ARE UNC fans!)
Jim and Greg are also excellent crew and we appreciated all their expert help:
Lots
of good talks were enjoyed, but not much success was had with the fishing in
spite of our long runs up and down the sound. Lobster season also closed before the guys
found any accommodating bugs, so we managed to feast on Paul’s Mahi and our
ship’s stores – no complaints were heard. Check with the guys for the whole
story.
Erben Renewal style conch fritters:
From
here we are heading to Long Island to meet up with sailing buddies Cathy and
Kim for a trip down to the Jumentos and Ragged islands before turning north for
home waters. Cell coverage may be slim
down that way and the stress of this Bahamian relaxed life will undoubtedly
make our updates even more sporadic…. Eventually all the beautiful photos will
show up so stay tuned.
Hopefully
our new dink will survive – she is also showing a wandering tendency. ....another dink rescue:
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