Time Traveling

Time Traveling - The Great Dismal Swamp to 21^st century industrial might.

Elizabeth City – the harbor of hospitality –in fact lives up to this motto. As all the guide books chronicle, boats are met at the FREE city docks by volunteers called Rose Buddies who frequently present the women on board with roses (when they are in bloom) and courteously grab our lines. Since it took us a couple tries to find a slip that we fit and got ourselves in stern first, we were grateful to have the helping hands on the dock.  These FREE docks are rather unique – they have the width painted on the bulkhead or back wall of the slip.  The sizes vary from 11 to 18 feet, but the numbers can only be read when the boat is fairly close to the slip which then requires backing and maneuvering – no small feat with any wind or current (Fortunately the gale from the previous evening had mostly blown itself out.) In addition, the docks have posts, but only tiny finger platforms so many boats have to exit directly onto the shore. You can see a few pictures of our friends doing gymnastics over their bowsprit. I was lucky that with our butt in I could use the mini dock and exit normally.  This friendly town also has a Fresh Food grocery that sends a van three times a day to the dock to bring boaters to their wonderful store several miles away.  We were in time to catch the 3 PM ride and used the opportunity to resupply the heavy stuff J

Downtown Elizabeth City seems to be still in transition with lots of potential since they have preserved some impressive buildings and are converting a few into condos.

 

 

 

The location is scenic at a 90 degree bend in the Pasquotank river. Up this river we enjoyed some of the most beautiful scenery on our trip to date as we approached and then transited the Great Dismal Swamp canal. This canal is the oldest manmade waterway still in use.  Construction began on the first version in the 1780s and began operation in 1805. The 30+ mile canal was originally dug by “enslaved people” and connects the Elizabeth River with the Pasquotank. It has been improved  - widened and deepened so now there are only two locks – one at each end which also include a lift bridge each. Making this transit, then, requires timing travel to make the lock/bridge schedules. Traveling with M & T we arrived within minutes of the 11 AM opening and were able to lock through with no wait. The rise on the south end is a gentle 8 feet providing no big adventure. The joy of this trip is the tunnel feeling along the narrow canal fringed with dense vegetation and tall trees. On our first day we enjoyed beautiful sunny weather, and there was no evidence for the dismal in the name of this area.  However, we woke to drizzle and low clouds and finished our transit in a much gloomier and dismal environment. While I knew it was daytime, down in the saloon and cabins, it felt more like dusk. Our stay in the swamp included overnighting at the visitor center FREE dock.  These free docks are just places to tie up, mind you, with no power, water or other boater services. Nevertheless, they do provide a secure and mostly roll-free anchorage. This North Carolina visitor center is the only welcome center in the states serving both cars and boats.  (Florida used to have one in Fernandina Bch, but that has sadly been gone for a long time.) Across a pontoon bridge is the headquarters of the Great Dismal Swamp State Park including a small museum and 120 miles of trails.  Luckily we walked over a few minutes before a hay wagon ride/tour led by the park superintendent, Joy Greenleaf.  Her passion for the history and ecology of the park was evident in her hour long presentation and tour. We also walked the boardwalk into the swamp and the path along the canal with  many folks out enjoying the sunny Sunday afternoon.  It was a treat to get some off-boat exercise in a slice of Mother Nature’s spring splendor. Our travel on the canal officially ended as we locked through at the north end into Deep Creek dropping here 8 feet. This canal does not see a lot of action since there is no commercial traffic and only about 2000 pleasure boats use it annually.  The depth is supposedly 9 feet, but several times we saw less than 2 feet under our 4’10”draft making this route closed to any boats with more than 6’of draft. Frankly, it is a treat to be in such a beautiful place and not have to worry about fighting traffic since we emerged from the creek into the Elizabeth River a few miles from the bustling Norfolk Navy Shipyards which are actually in Portsmouth, VA. The clever navy did not want any confusion with the Portsmouth ME facility – so no confusion, right? This stretch of river leading into the cities of Norfolk on the north side and Portsmouth to the south is one huge industrial complex. After almost a week in the back country of North Carolina, we were shocked to be plunged so dramatically into the modern world. This transition was deepened when we approached the Gilmerton Lift Bridge which our guide informed us was only 11’off the water. However, as we approached we thought – hummm that looks a lot more than 11’and sure enough they had recently changed it to 35’ which we could clear but our friends in the sailboat could not. Should we proceed while they waited for the opening or not…. AS we hemmed and thought, the railroad bridge just in front of Gilmerton started flashing and lifted so we all had to wait. A short 45 minutes later after circling the smoke stakes, barges and towers in the turning basin we were under the bridge. The size of warships almost defies description.  They just don’t fit my camera lens. Seeing one is impressive, but mile after mile was overwhelming.  We had gone from the tunnel of Mother Nature to manmade gray canons  in the space of a few short miles. We opted to stay in Portsmouth with its historic district and harbor walk a short block from the marina. Everything we needed was handy with the exception of a big grocery store, but the owner of the Mile Zero (the ICW ends or begins here) Marine store will provide transport with a little notice – just another example of the kind people who are involved with cruising.  Among other things, Portsmouth has a restored art deco movie house which has tables and club chairs rather than seats. Dinner is ordered over the phone on the table and served before the movie starts. This theatre alone was worth the visit and $5 cash ticket for seniors.  We truly enjoyed the first movie we have seen in many, many months – the Jackie Robinson story, “42”. Oh yes, I also found an antique store with tons of special buttons to add to my stash – please don’t tell Steve or we might not get to come back here. Photos of the wonders of the swamp and Norfolk/Portsmouth.