Rideau Part 2 – 3 mile days

Rideau Part 2 – 3 mile days

Continuing our slow trek we have stopped at the impressive Jones Falls Lock and Dam for a dinner at the historic Hotel Kenney – reportedly now owned by an American who used to visit here as a boy. This hotel and restaurant has operated since 1877 serving those who were lucky enough to visit the Rideau Lakes and our stop today was like a return to those earlier days of gracious lakeside living. 

We moved on to Davis Lock and then Chaffey’s Lock where shaded walls shielded our boat from summer sun and protected us from lake winds. The journeys were short but scenic as we wound between islands of granite and pine trees splashed by crystal clear water.

The folks we have been “camping” alongside have been gracious and welcoming – sharing their many years of Rideau experience to help us plan our next stops – it is not hard to understand why so many have spent 20 or 30 years boating in this area.

What is it that makes this area so appealing? Friendly and helpful people rate right at the top – we never seem to be short of hands on the dock to grab lines and give an assist. Also, the folks we have met are eager to share ideas on their favorite spots and places to avoid – far more useful than bland guidebook pandering to advertisers. While the lock walls have been full the last couple of evenings, no one is noisy late at night or early in the AM – we have been in far less crowded camping spots with far more noise.  Here the sounds of waterfalls from canal dams help mask any human noise.

The locks themselves plus the bridges and dams  are marvelous feats of engineering – largely unchanged from their early 19^th century construction. In the whole system of 44+ locks, only three are operated by electricity. Yet, these cranks and doors squeak with the triumphant cries of early innovation as they open and close for 21^st century boats. Watching the ballet puzzle of boats being loaded in a lock is fascinating not only for boaters like us but for the tourists who stop at these lock parks to watch the action. We suspect they are hoping for a “disaster” with boats ramming walls or other boats or just blowing around in the wind – while the reality is more mundane as the expert lock managers and their assistants expertly guide boats into the lock – cramming the maximum in when traffic is high – with a steady, unhurried grace. Then they close the doors, lift the appropriate gates and finally open the exit doors to release the boats on their way. That is unless the lock is part of a flight of two or more locks which open and close into another lock – like at Jones Falls, Kingston Mills or Ottawa.

                                     

At this point we have cleared hundreds of locks, but still find watching and participating endlessly entertaining.  It is also pure delight to have the young attendants doing the hard work of cranking the locks, gates and bridges.  We have all to clear a memory of the locks in France that we had to operate on our own. As with those locks, we find the mechanics of this functioning antique machinery and the massive masonry constructions worthy of photographs which we insert for your pleasure!

One word about the bridges – those steel cables that run from the frame to the deck are not fixed but require “tuning” by the lock keepers sometimes several times a day depending on weather conditions – wet or dry weather and changes in temperature mean that the bridge will not set properly without “turning” – too loose it will get stuck and not swing – too tight and it will have an uneven road surface. We imagine that this is not an exact science but another skill that lock keepers learn on the job overtime – like their precise skills in loading a lock with the best mixture of boats and in the correct order.

Finally, there is the scenery – granite cliffs and islands dotted with evergreens, narrow passages and that oh so clear water – sometimes all too clear and we can see the bottom closer than I like. Other times, the bottom is 100 or even closer to 200 feet below us – all changing quickly so Captain Steve has to stay alert, but then with the dramatic scenes it is not hard – our short travel days also help! But, who would rush through such a place.  It amazes us that Colonel By had the foresight to build this canal so that 21^st century boaters could continue to enjoy this mostly pristine corner of Canada.