Our Kadey Krogen Trawler

Our Kadey Krogen Trawler

Sunday, June 26, 2016

on to Ptown

Leaving Nantucket, we opted to back track down the Nantucket and Vineyard Sounds and through the Woods Hole Canal for a night on the hook in Hadley Harbor.  A short dinghy ride took us back to Woods Hole for a brisk walk around Eel Lake in the heart of this village – perched on the lower edge of Cape Cod.  The Marine Biological Laboratory and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute buildings dominate the picturesque scene. We arrived too late for a tour or museum visit, so another pause here might be in order on our way south in the fall.    
Here too ferries to Martha’s Vineyard regularly rock the waters. From our anchorage in Hadley Harbor, however, we remained protected only enjoying the haunting departure whistles which drifted across the water.

An early start gave us the perfect tide for transiting the Cape Cod Canal where we even reduced our throttle to 1300 to maintain the max allowed speed of 10mph!  (You might remember we normally struggle to reach 7.5 mph at 1700 rpm.)  The tide continued to push us across the bay and into the harbor at Provincetown. The town was crazy busy on this early Saturday afternoon since we landed in the middle of their Portuguese Festival. A full weekend of mostly free entertainment was a bonus added to the spectrum of wild fun normally on tap. We walked the strip – sampling restaurants and take out with stops in the colorful shops.  Everything from ticky-tacky trash to exclusive high-end jewelry and couture are on offer – not to mention the proliferation of art galleries. 

Jim did they steal this idea?

The festival included a parade on Saturday with marching bands and Portuguese dancers and a more somber procession/parade on Sunday leading to the Blessing of the Fleet.  Our top deck provided the perfect perch to watch the parade of decorated boats. As with the parades on the streets – chaos and confusion added to the spectacle as did watching the crowds who were lining the streets.

The Bishop's arm is coming out of the boat on the left!

We also found time to climb the Pilgrim Monument.  This 250+ foot tower was built in the early 20th century to commemorate the first landing of the Mayflower in 1620. The views from the top on this clear morning were well worth the climb to the highest spot on Cape Cod. The museum at the base of the tower included interesting displays as well.  The connection of this town to early 20th century artists and writers was chronicled with special attention to Eugene O’Neill and Tennessee William’s time here.  The largest displays focused on the Mayflower and those early pilgrim settlers.  While most of us think of Plymouth, MA and the ROCK when remembering the Mayflower, in Provincetown, they want us to notice that the famous ship stopped here first for weeks before heading across the bay to Plymouth.

sorry - tilt

So like the pilgrims, we will be heading from Ptown to Plymouth.

Erben Renewal in Provincetown Harbor

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Recovering on Block Island, RI

Recovering on Block Island, RI
Block Island – a better place to relax and rejuvenate could not be found. We spent several days roaming this tiny island on our bikes. For its petite size it has some hilly roads, but the views and exercise were a welcome change to days on the water.  

Block Island has an anchorage in Salt Pond that offers nearly 360 degrees of wind protection.  However, we enjoyed nearly perfect weather during our stay.  Block Island lies a mere 10ish miles off the tip of Long Island but seems a world apart from New York and a major cultural shift from Charleston. The buildings are mostly cedar shake with a New England feel complemented by the sweeping oat grass dunes and shorelines. The Salt Pond boat dock is a short mile or so from the heart of the old harbor – a nice bike ride or walk to the touristy shops and provisions as well as numerous tempting restaurant options. We managed to sample a few and stock up at the grocery stores.  

To justify our caloric intake, we biked to all three lighthouses on the island – fortunately not all in one day.  The North Light was an 8 mile ride with a mile beach walk – but well worth the effort to see this granite structure built in 1867. 

The next day we did a circuit that included famous sights such as the painted rock, the Mohegan Bluffs, and Southeast light.  Steve climbed to the top – a special treat since very few operating lighthouses allow visitors.  This is also a historic building constructed in 1873 but moved in 1993 since the cliff on which it was perched was eroding.  The special tours are part of a fundraising effort to restore the main building.

Somehow we also found the energy to peddle out to the Coast Guard lighthouse that guards the entrance channel to the Salt Pond and browse the Saturday Farmer’s Market.  In between there was plenty of time to relax on the bluffs or our back deck and recover from our nautical travels. The sunset bagpipe serenade was not tough duty either!

Note that the cats did not complain about the long travel days and enjoyed their usual play time without missing a beat.