A Stinging Welcome Home

A Stinging Welcome Home

Checking back into the good old USA was high tech via the new ROAM app.  Steve called in and they responded with a video call on our Ipad.  Everything in order, we were given the entry numbers to verify our welcome home.  This is one step up from the telephone calls we have been making when returning to Florida from the Bahamas with the boater cards we have used the previous six years. The new system is now nationwide and makes our travels even smoother. Yeah for technology and computer apps!

However, a pesky bee added some sting to our first anchorage in the USA.  While dropping the dink off Harbor Island, Julia was stung on the thigh.  Sadly, she has more than the normal reaction, although fortunately not the serious anaphylactic shock kind, and the sting raged for more than a week. We managed to make stops at DeTour Village where a few supplies were had as well as a meal at the Mainsail restaurant.  The place was so laid back that we were the only customers for lunch!  We had excellent service and good Michigan beer as well.  A few days winding our way through the Les Cheneaux Islands with a shopping/lunch stop in Cedarville brought us to an anchorage off Hessel, MI.  Here we reconnected with our Aramco friends from Ras Tanura, Jeanette and Alan Kivela.  They have had a busy summer with travel to Newfound Land and Labrador then visits from grandchildren and children plus assorted other relatives and friends… We felt fortunate to arrive during a short break between visitors.  They generously took us to lunch where we talked non-stop to catch up. Friends from our Saudi days are special since we share such a connection with our 20 years there.  Alan and Jeanette also were also a part of our swim team family. It was wonderful to see them and get caught up on their travels and the current happenings with their children.  Sorry not many photos of us – all talking time, but we did visit them back in 2013 if you are curious. They have not aged a minute! Lots of boats, however, caught our camera eye.

From Hessel we crossed to Mackinaw City Municipal Marina for a side trip to see our good friends Marty and Suzanne. Although they have a gorgeous home on the Jordan Arm off Lake Charlevoix, they spend most of the year on their Krogen 48 which is currently in Grenada.  We first met them back in 2014 at the Krogen Rendezvous and traveled several times with them.  Following their blog and adventures since they left the states for parts south, we wanted to both see their MI home and pick their brains for our next adventure. They generously fit us into their summer – like the Kivelas, filled with family, friends and chores!  Marty also helped Steve procure a new AGM battery for our bow thruster and windless.  The battery has been dying which was seriously compromising the power in our thruster as well as the ability to pull the anchor.  Since we anchor out much of the time, getting the anchor up was a priority.  Hand cranking it was not high on Julia’s exercise wish list. (There are so many more interesting ways to get a little exercise.) Thanks to Marty’s help, we are full power on both the thruster and the windlass…. (of course, now we are in Western MI and WI where anchorages are scarce.) It was a treat to see Marty and Suzanne and finally see first hand the beautiful home they have created in this special part of Michigan. Nestled in the trees with a lake view their “cottage” appears secluded from neighbors although in reality there are homes nearby.  The location and construction are magic and a perfect compliment to winters in the Caribbean Islands.

On our trip down to East Jordan, we made stops at big box stores to stock up on those heavy supplies that boaters need but rarely have easy access to.  Our lists required multiple stops – never is everything in one place – and our needs include strange items like activated charcoal and snowflake buttons….  Surprisingly around Petoskey we found just about everything on our list and even some things that just jumped in the cart.

passing the glorious Machinac Island

free concert

cruising the ARM with Tucks

During our stay in Mackinaw City we also had time to walk the strip of this tourist town and enjoy a few meals off the boat.

From Mack City we had a great weather window to cross the northern end of Lake Michigan. Our overnight stop was in the Beaver Island chain – an anchorage opposite St James Harbor which we pretty much had to ourselves off Garden Island. 

From there we had good weather to stay on the hook off the tip of Garden Peninsula next to the tiny fishing village of Fairport.  We had good water depth so cut through the passage in front of the village and headed up to Garden Bay for the night.  This anchorage is wide open but in calm weather is great with the added bonus of a water view Dock Grill restaurant in the RV park.  Broiled Whitefish or a Walleye Wrap for lunch made this a perfect stop.

From there we headed back south for a few days at the ghost town Fayette state park.  This park preserves the mid 19^th Century town of Fayette where iron ore was processes until the wood for charcoal ran out. The once bustling town was basically abandoned to a few fishing families and was purchased in the mid 20^th Century as a state park. Today it is a fascinating walk through the life in the late 1800s. Homes from middle class families as well as workers are displayed along paths winding through the forest.  The hotel, school, meeting hall, foundry and other remnants of the businesses here have been restored and were also open. This location was originally chosen not just for the abundant forests nearby, but also for the deep protected harbor. This harbor is now a first-class mini-marina with water and power on spanking new finger docks for 14 boats.  We had it to ourselves with only a couple other boats. During the day this remote park was full of visitors who come by car.  We walked through the camp ground which was also a busy spot with tent and RV campers.  After the exhibits closed, however, the grounds once again had the eerie feel of the ghost town that it is.

fishing for a lost phone with our gear

Part 3 – Farewell Oh Canada

Our last month in Canada was spent in the glorious splendor of the Georgian Bay and the North Channel.  We sampled anchorages shared with “on pain of death” by locals – some whose brains we picked down south during the winter and some were offered up by boaters we met along the way.

The majesty of the rocks, water and stark vegetation are not captured in our photos – but we try.

Beausoleil Island – part of the Parks Canada system was our first stop.  Although we did not use the docks we visited folks who were on them but found plenty of anchoring room and enjoyed the privacy of the hook.  Besides a hike around Fairy Lake, we did take a dink ride to visit the “town” of Honey Harbor just across the way.  It was well supplied with a nice grocery and several small food shops i.e. bakeries and ice cream!  

From there we worked our way very slowly north to enjoy quiet and secluded anchorages in the Mississauga Provincial Park and on through the winding south entrance to resupply at Parry Sound – after clearing the swing bridge.

This lively town was huge compared to the places we had been in the previous month and full of friendly people willing to give Steve even more fishing advice.  The market was small but the murals were interesting and the town seems dedicated to the great Bobby Orr – we even enjoyed breakfast at the Orr Café.

From our anchorage in the Hopewells, we took a dink ride to visit the Ojibway Club – one of those places lost in time.  If the crowds weren’t wearing modern clothing it would be easy to forget what century we were visiting.  The buildings are beautifully preserved with old world rustic charm suiting the stunning setting. Most importantly the buildings were alive with families of all ages enjoying a summer which included boating, tennis, and ice cream. It was a welcome surprise to find the well-stocked grocery store as well.

Finally, we were ready to hope over to the Bustards. Cutting a corner by taking the off-shore route we noticed large fires in the area of Byng Sound.  These fires have now closed the small craft route north of Byng and through the French River area and even the beautiful anchorages in the Bustards and Bad River that we managed to visit before the smoke made them off limits.  

The stop in the Bustards was a memorable one since we met Evelyn Calder who owns Green Island.  She is a remarkable lady to say the very least.  Her stories and good humor entertained us for an evening during which she graciously shared her island home with us. We were given a whole new perspective on the occasional hostility that cottages show to boaters.  Evelyn told of boaters dumping port-a-potties in front of her cabin, tying boats to her trees and running generators just off her deck, and even stealing her fire wood. Over her more than 50 years on the island, she has seen it all.  We were very grateful hear her perspective and to share her beautiful islands if only for one night.

From there we spent a night in the stark anchorage up the Bad River.  There were lots of boats, but then this is a roomy anchorage as promised.  A dink ride to the flooded rapids was less exciting than the fish Steve caught. This was the beginning of our time with lots of boats.  

Three Sisters - West Side of Bustards

Smoky air in the morning

Although there were only a few in the anchorage in Beaverstone Bay – one of whom was Amazon – a fellow looper boat we met back in Lock 8 on the Trent. From there we glided through the skinny Collins Chanel and stopped in Thomas Bay – a lovely little cove which still managed to hold several other boats.  

Our next stop was a night on the dock in Killarney where we got some provisions and lunched at the traditional lodge another classic backwoods building.  

One of our most picturesque stops – among this land of gorgeous anchorages – was Covered Portage – a mere 6 miles from Killarney but another world.  It is also popular and we thought it might be crowded but as we arrived boats were leaving and we ended up spending this spacious cove with only 3 other boats.  The hike up the bluff gave some spectacular views of our boat as well.

Moving westerly ever so slowly, we spent several days in the charming Baie Fine pool.  This lovely spot was reached by traveling down a long fiord like bay and then a narrow channel to the pool.  Again, there were lots of other boats – some tied off to the rocks and other swinging on the hook. One morning we were lucky to see a rainbow above our boat.

Little Current is a must stop town and the heart of the North Channel.  Here a bridge connects Manitoulin Island to the main land and the opening of this bridge controls the traffic on the water here.  The bridge only opens on the hour – but it takes about 5 minutes to beginning opening then begins closing 5 minutes after that so the traffic is not stopped for more than 15 minutes.  Boats wishing to travel through must be ready and move quickly during that five-minute window. Now that might be easy for fast boats and then there is the current which is anything but LITTLE most of the time. Needless to say, arriving in Little Current from the East is always exciting.  We were glad to finally get a spot on the wall there to explore this town, get a few supplies and sample the local restaurants. 

Listening to Roy Eaton do the morning net from Anchor Inn in Little Current

Departing is less exciting as long as the wind is not blowing and the current is slack so we finally moved on to a few more of the Top Pick anchorages in the North Channel. At our stop off Louisa Island we were joined by only four or five boats unlike the main anchorage in the South Benjamins where we counted at least 32 other cruisers enjoying this scenic harbor.  The cozy cove in the Croker’s was empty comparatively with only four of us sheltered up next to the rocks and trees, but better fishing than across in the Benjamins. A visit to the main harbor behind Hotham was another high point.  In this anchorage we were welcomed by Elaine and Norm who own the land and have a lovely cottage on shore.  They host the cruisers each evening for docktails on their deck. With more than 15 boats in the harbor that night we enjoyed meeting 30 or so fellow boaters and hearing about their adventures.

So Benjamins

Norm & Elaine's Cottage

Marking the anchor in busy anchorages

Making a stop on our way to Gore Bay Marina we spent a night all alone in Beatty Bay – which sadly also had no fish for our freezer. Gore Bay on Manitoulin Island, however, was a treat. We got in early enough to enjoy the Friday Market on the dock which even included a Yarn Stall housed in a mobile yarn shop trailer.  The owner, Marian, also dyes most of the wool she sells and prepares it in a variety of knitting weights. She started when her Grandfather was shearing the wool although she now works with the wool raised by other farmers.  It was amazing to find such unique yarn and abundant supplies in this relatively remote location.  However, since her farm is on neighboring Barrie Island, I guess it was just luck to be there on a day she was at the market. While the market didn’t have as much fresh produce as we had expected there was more than enough butter tarts, cookies and pies to satisfy the Captain’s sweet tooth.

A few more nights anchoring in the North Chanel included stops at John’s Harbor, scenic Bear Drop Bay – where we crossed paths with fellow Krogenites on Knot 2 Fast, Long Point Cove, and finally Sanford Island.  In Bear Drop we held fast through a fierce wind, thunder and lightening storm while watching other boats drift about and drag anchor.  Although the weather was gray for a couple of days, we were glad to not see another storm so Steve could be comfortable fishing!

heading back to their boat after the storm

Our last Canadian stop was Meldrum Bay – this outpost is the furthest westerly settlement on Manitoulin Island and a shortish run across to Michigan.  Meldrum while very small – we heard only about 35 fulltime residents – is home to an Inn that is both charming and offers a delightful restaurant.  Their deck seating is a short few steps from the docks so a rare evening meal out was enjoyed by the crew and captain. This tiny town that felt more like Nova Scotia than Ontario also houses the Net Shed Museum.  The collection is an eclectic mix of industrial and household items from the communities more populous past.  Of interest was the button collection and also the sea anchor and other antique fishing equipment.  In our stops at both Gore Bay and Meldrum we were interested to see the unique tugs that fish these waters. While historic and boasting a long pedigree, they look more like some futuristic stealth vessel. We were grateful for the fish they supplied to the inn restaurant where we enjoyed both trout and whitefish.

Taking advantage of a calm day on the water we headed for Michigan and a check in appointment with Customs and Boarder Security via their new ROAM app.  Nice to have our USA cellphones and data working once again.

P.S. Teddy is doing well.....