Moonlight Anchoring

Moonlight Anchoring

Leaving Long Island after the Saturday Farmer’s Market for the 10+ hour trip into the New Bight anchorage, we knew our arrival would come just after sunset.  Even though we have pulled the anchor in the dark many times, we have never needed to enter an anchorage after dark.  Fishing delays added to the travel time but this first for us, was a big yawn.  The shiny 3/4 moon was out as the sun disappeared and our new radar sharply defined the four other boats already at anchor in this spacious spot.  The sandy bottom insured the hook bit on the first try and we were watching CBS network TV over the antenna before NCIS New Orleans rerun was finished. 

As a side note, we were told by a Long Islander who is a duel US/Bahamian citizen, that US TV is broadcast in most of the islands as a side benefit for letting the private companies build the new cell tower system. Who would have thunk to tune the TV in the middle of nowhere?  We have also noticed a 100% improvement in the cell tower coverage this year over last – with our cell booster we have had at least periodic connectivity most of the trip.  The connection is not always strong enough for uploading but plenty good enough for downloading emails which is better than we experienced last year in the Abacos.

The New Bight anchorage is off Cat Island’s famous Hermitage - retirement home of Father Jerome architect of memorable houses of worship throughout the islands. It is perched atop the highest peak in the Bahamas – twice the height of Perry’s Peak in the Exumas! 

There is a paved road and a wide path most of the way to the Hermitage.  Only the last stretch is steeply up hill, however, the climb is made easier with steps carved and built into the cliff.  The building is beautifully constructed using ancient barrel vaults reminiscent of the Mediterranean and Middle East.  The big surprise was the petit size.  From below the complex looks massive, but in fact, it is tiny.  The chapel barely has room for one seat and lacks the lofty headroom of its style.  It is mini retreat lovingly built for one man of small stature. The view is 360 degrees with glimpses of the Exuma Sound as well as the Atlantic. A perfect perch for a life of solitude and contemplation – Father Jerome’s stated goal.

Our stop in New Bight was not only about mountain retreats. We visited Hidden Treasures – a food shack on the beach for several delicious lunches prepared by Chef Denise whose hospitality puts Chef Pierre to shame. Denise has also retired to Cat Island for a change of pace from Nassau.  Although she hasn’t built in stone like Father Jerome, she has created her own little paradise.  Along with her daughter and mother, she entertains guest at the umbrella tables on the beach behind her “shack” which holds the bar and her kitchen.  The short bit of road in front of the cell tower boasts colorful public Regatta buildings, the bright yellow admin complex, a gleaming new FREE bathhouse, a couple closed basket shops, and a handful of sparkling gems serving food. The turquoise Hidden Treasure is our favorite. Steve even tried to help Denise find the stash of conch that seems to have gone missing but no luck there.  He still enjoyed a fantastic grilled conch lunch!

This stop on Cat has everything – space for solitude, abundant natural beauty, revolutionary era ruins, great food and easy access to resupply – not to mention HELPFUL people.  When Steve asked for the location of a hardware store in the Police Station, the receptionist offered the use of her car since it was too far to walk. That was only one offer for a ride in our short stay. We also had plenty of help when Steve made a run to ice all that fish…. Yes, New Bight will be a place to revisit on our next trip.

FISHING

Then there is the FISHING

Perhaps the biggest and most passionate activity, which was not mentioned in the previous blog, is FISHING!  The omission may have had more to do with our recent lack of success than the amount of time, energy and resources devoted to this activity.  However, the tide has now turned.  (We think it was Alizann gifting us some of their Mahi Magic, but that is only an educated guess.) 

Steve did bag a Wahoo on the way into George Town which we shared to keep room in our freezer.    The trip down to Cat was especially exciting – a sailfish took the bait and fought valiantly only to be photographed and released. No room for trophy fish on our walls.  He was beautiful.

Then after almost 10 hours underway we approached the turn into the bight on Cat Island and three lines sang.  Fortunately, only two were landed since we barely have room for the 20+ pounds of Mahi that were caught.  The big boy was huge and managed to destroy most of my planters on the back deck as he thrashed about – we feared he was going back overboard.  Such fun in rolling seas – is priceless.

Oh then the dolphins joined us to leap for joy – celebrating with Steve his big catch! Sorry I was not fast enough to catch the whole pod in the air at the same time…..

Long Island – a place to revisit

Long Island – a place to revisit

Our first stop after George Town was Thompson Bay on Long Island.  While we hid from Hurricane Joaquin last fall in the NY Long Island, the Bahamas’ Long Island was being destroyed by the storm.  For 30+ hours it pounded the southern half of the island and the results are still visible in Salt Pond on the northern edge of the destruction.  We found the people friendly, welcoming and eager to have visitors.  It was also a place to offer help in the recovery efforts still underway.

The approaching weather is the only reason we headed out and look forward to returning for a longer stay and tour of this island with everything a cruiser could need – even a weekly Farmer’s Market with local produce and products. 

Before leaving we managed a protracted lunch on the veranda at Chez Pierre’s restaurant.  The curmudgeon-like Chef Pierre grudgingly prepared lunch for us – his only customers that day and in spite of his brusque demeanor the meal was fantastic – and so plentiful the group could only manage to share one dessert. It was worth the 6 mile dinghy ride each way and made a fitting farewell from our friends on Sea Dweller and Changing Course who opted to linger on in Thompson Bay while we headed for Cat Island.