Heading North

Heading North

Postings have been rare this season and so I am now playing catch up.  There are a few more picks and words on the Raggeds before we start back….

First Duncan Town was as friendly and interesting as we had been lead to believe it would be.  Even the trip into the town is interesting.  The route follows a 2 plus mile canal through mangroves – lined much of the way with discarded (harvested) conch shells. 

At the end of the canal the colorful buildings are perched on the rocky (ragged) peak of Ragged Island.

The hospitality exceeded even the glowing reports in our guide book. The first lady we met helped us find all our needs – lunch, grocery and even spare parts.  She never just gave us info, but guided us around and checked back to see if we needed anything else. Everyone we met was equally friendly and helpful.  Our town tour included views of the local salt flats – and we even got a few samples to take home. 

 The highlight, however,  was our trek out to Persus Wilson’s former bar and grill that has a DC3 built into the roof. Even pictures do not do justice to his clever construction.  He personally gave us a tour which was a special treat since he has been recovering for almost a year from a chemical poisoning. He is finally on the road to recovery and he graciously led us around his interesting property and even gave us a lift back into town.

LUNCH stop - THANKS Erika!

Duncan Town is so welcoming to cruisers that they have built a TIKI hut on Hog Island for cruisers which is equipped with lounge chairs, grills, tables and all manner of décor. On Hog Island we also found many well maintained and well-marked trails.  The trails were cleverly marked with trash (or treasures) from the beaches.  The amazing variety of junk that was used and recycled keep us on the trail and amused during our walks on Hog.

Looking ahead for a good weather window to head north, we started back up the chain with stops again at Flamingo and Water Cays.  The commercial fishermen at both locations were kind enough to supply us with great seafood – either for cash or an exchange of services.  We also met Adele and Herman with their grandson Toby on a unique steel two masted schooner. The wealth of interesting folks is a giant part of our enjoyment in cruising.

Birthday party for Alan

Toby getting a conch cracking lesson

Our return took us across the banks with a quiet night behind Great Exuma Island where again we had excellent cell connectivity – only a 300 email download.

Another day landed us in Blackpoint for a visit with Ida for laundry and a haircut. We then made a stop at Staniel Cay for water and were delighted to hear from Kim and Cathy – who were nearby – all the wind had prevented them from heading north. A mini-reunion was needed to exchange notes and catch up……liberally accompanied by good food and beverages.

entertainment in the Staniel Cay anchorage

Our serious northerly trek began with a few days at Hawksbill Cay – a stop in the Exuma Land and Sea park – our first visit there.  We enjoyed a few hikes and Steve found some nice spots to snorkel as well. This island was occupied for many years and has the ruins to prove it. The beehive oven with the neighboring conch pile reveals their clever use of local materials in home construction. Thankfully the paths were clear which again made us marvel at the hardy souls who inhabited these lands in the post-Revolutionary War era. However, the beaches and the water were spectacular.

 Our route back stateside was almost a reverse of our trip over.  We hopped to West Bay – an anchorage on the west end of New Providence Island and waited for some calm winds before heading across.  We had hoped to spend a night on the bank but opted to just anchor for break of four hours before continuing on into the St Lucie Inlet and a mooring at Sunset Bay Marina in Stuart, FL. The break gave the severe thunderstorms a chance to dissipate and the waters to calm – which seemed to happen as we enjoyed excellent favorable winds to cross the Gulf Stream.  Crossing when winds are opposed to the current or of any strength makes for a rough trip - that means NO fishing. Needless to say, Steve likes to make sure we cross in calm weather to keep the freezer stocked.

This old guy gave him a fight

Even part of a moon helps light the night

Checking in was facilitated by our Local Boater Cards and only required a phone call to legally clear us through. Time to catch up with no more excuses……

the condition of our flag suggests the winds we have endured

Long Island, BAH to the Ragged Islands

Long Island, BAH to the Ragged Islands

The best plans for boaters are the ones made in Jello.  We did run over to Thompson Bay and Salt Pond on Long Island but then Mother Nature dictated our schedule and planning.  On Long Island we met up again with Kim and Cathy as well as Amanda and Michelle – folks we have been meeting and enjoying since we crossed the banks from South Bimini back in February.  Besides dominoes and docktails, we made a few land excursions.  A rental van transported the six of us on a tour of the island hot spots.  We started with Leonard Cartwright who guided us through his family caves while educating us with stories about these 3000 feet of underground caverns.  These hidey holes were Leonard’s childhood playground as well as a bolt holes when hurricanes approached.  Settlers in the 1800s harvested the bat guano as evidenced by inscriptions on the walls. All in all a “cool” experience and that’s from the claustrophobic Admiral.

For lunch we stopped at the Rowdy Boys Tavern overlooking the Atlantic in Clarence Town.  We were the only guests but lunch was still a two plus hour affair seriously eating up our touring schedule.  We did manage a peak at the two famous churches – one Anglican and one Catholic designed by Father Jerome whose mini-hermitage we visited on Cat Island last year. Sadly, neither was open for an exploration of the interior.  However, the historic St Mary’s ruins were open so we saw this historic building – reportedly the oldest church on Long Island originally built by the Spanish.

Before heading to the north end of the island the boys took a leap into the famous Dean’s Blue hole – an ocean sink hole – the deepest in the world at over 600 feet.  It is also the site for an upcoming free diving event. The boys all climbed the cliff and after much deliberation and antics, took turns plunging off into the deep hole.  Fortunately, all survived – mostly unscathed, and we headed onward.

After we crossing our tracks (there is only one road on the island) we continue to the north end to enjoy sunset at the Cape Santa Maria Resort – fresh conch fritters and margaritas – a nice end to a busy day.  Cape Santa Maria, by the way, is named for one of Columbus’ ships since local legend has it that he visited nearby on his early exploration of the islands. Our time got away from us and we did not get to the end of the road to see the monument to Columbus’ visit. Since we also missed the ruins of several Loyalist plantations, we have a good excuse to visit here again.

After numerous beach walks and a bountiful restocking of our shelves at the friendly Hillside Grocery Store in Salt Pond we took a brief weather window to cross back westerly and south to the Jumentos with hopes of reaching the Ragged Islands. As it turned out time was running short for Kim and Cathy who decided to head north rather than south. We also said farewell to Amanda and Michelle who were venturing off toward Puerto Rico.  So we started our calm crossing through the Comer channel at high tide by ourselves but soon spotted a sailing vessel named Mesmariah. Both of us were cutting across while the getting was good and would be seeking shelter from the predicted high winds at Flamingo Cay. It was a long day for us but Flamingo proved a secure and somewhat protected stop. 

Besides Mesmariah there was a commercial fishing boat, two sailing vessels heading north and All the Way – also heading south. So, even in these remote islands we were not alone. We had time to dink into the tiny cave off the beach and the next morning we climbed the hill to the abandoned light.

Mesmariah remained behind while we and All the Way moved on.

Our next stop was Buenavista Cay where we met our host, Edward Lockhart. Making his acquaintance is indeed a highlight of travel in the Bahamas.  Edward graciously greeted us on the beach – introducing himself and giving us a tour of his establishment.  He raises chickens and peacocks and attempts to tame some of the island’s wild goats. His house and sheds are “under construction” since he has been doing all the work himself over the last eight years. Progress has been slow since Edward is 77 years old and almost everything he needs must be brought on the bi-weekly mail boat that comes from Nassau. A more cheerful and spry fellow we have yet to meet and truly we were honored to listen to his stories.  He joined us and the fellows on All the Way for Mexican Train dominoes one afternoon and one morning he took the guys conching followed by Edward making conch salad on the back of our boat with the catch. A man of broad interests and vast experiences – we will always treasure our visits with Edward Lockhart on Buenavista Cay.

Making cookies for Edward

Alan, Aaron, Steve & Edward

Racoon Cay was our next stop where we along with Alan and Aaron on All the way reconnected with Laurie and Steve on Mesmariah. Ace beach combers, Steve and Laurie, spent hours hiking the sound side of the islands with lots of treasures to display and stories of the bushwhacking required to reach the other side on this island lacking any established pathways. Steve Erben did make one cross island trip which the Admiral wisely declined in favor of walking on the accessible bank side shores.

Cruisers TIKI hut on HOG CAY

Hog Cay is the final southerly anchorage for us in the Raggeds – this chain of tiny rocky islands hanging off of the Exumas – is closer to Cuba than either George Town or Nassau. Duncan Town is the only community in the island chain – and Edward is the only resident not living on Ragged Island in the Duncan Town area. While the town used to boast almost 500 residents, the best guess these days is barely 100 souls.  Since the tiny community does not offer much for us in terms of supplies or services, one might wonder what the heck are we doing down here?  Well the fishing is great – the beaches are less picked over and we are mostly on our own – away from the bustle of George Town Harbor or even Thompson Bay.  Needless to say – time slips away.  We do hope to post this with WIFI in Duncan Town – but since all such modern services are spotty out here – it may have to wait! and wait it did ......