Where did that month go?

Where did that month go?

Days slips away on Bahama Time.  We have nearly a month in the islands with hardly any “free time” for updating the blog…..

The last several days have been spent waiting out weather on the east side of Elizabeth Harbor off George Town in the Exumas. This break has finally offered a catch up opportunity:

Before reaching this mega polis where cars out number bikes and fender benders abound, we spent a few days in the quiet back water of Black Point Settlement.  Black Point is a true Bahamian town – it is the home base for workers from the Land and Sea Park to resorts south.  The fast boats leave at the first light ferrying the workers to their jobs.  We had no such schedule although their departing wakes gently rocked our boat.  We did get loads of laundry done in Ida’s Rockside Laundry.  Steve also got an Ida special haircut and some engine additive in this full service shop.  The town also has several restaurants and mini grocery stores.  On shore exercise included walks to the sound beaches and bluffs as well as the “must  see” Garden of Eden passing the local All-Ages school, clinic, police station and the reliable BeTelCo office (Bahama Telephone Company).  People living here are friendly – it seemed like everyone from the tiniest child in emerald green school uniform to the hip hop clad dock workers and traditionally garbed elders greeted us with cheerfully “hellos” or “good day!” The matriarch in the grocery store counseled local children as well as cruisers.  Overall Black Point is a more laid-back hangout which attacks much smaller boats as the shallow anchorage is not suitable for those fancy mega yachts. (It is also not protected from the west as we can verify.) The gazebo at the laundry is an attractive gathering point for relaxing and exchanging info and tips with other cruisers.

Our stay was extended to wait for the supply boat – this boat was much anticipated – the shop shelves were empty and the restaurants had limited offerings. Because of the Easter holiday, it had been over two weeks since the last boat’s arrival. Along with most of the town we eagerly watched for the ship and dinked in to join the crowd.  Gulf carts and a few pickup trucks lined the dock to deliver the much needed fresh food as well as a few special treats like the Jet Ski we saw perched on the upper deck. (Those palm trees on the back did not get off loaded – must have been bound for the next stop.) The loaded ship reminded us of the haji trucks we had seen in the Middle East – with goods precariously stacked at odd angles. The scene on the dock was a major social event as locals came to claim their shipments but also a hive of heavy lifting as a gang of men (and a few gals) manually hauled goods up the dock to load waiting transport. They then sped off through town to drop boxes at the designated destination. The ballet was interrupted by a few passing rain showers. Boxes and pallets were tarped and work halted to keep everyone safe on the slippery docks and decks.  Needless to say, we did not get any fresh produce that afternoon – after the showers finally eased up we headed back to the boat and made an early morning run to the shop the next day.

This gaily painted community is among our favorites, and it was hard to finally say farewell. 

Our next stop was Rudder Cay – and a quick visit to the piano – yes a piano or its remains – graces the sand a few meters off the island.  This was a remote and secluded spot which we shared with one other boat a way off.  In the far distance we could see a 100+ foot sailboat but otherwise we had the area to ourselves.  The dramatic cliff caves were even more impressive than the piano – and we have no idea how it came to be in the water.

From Rudder we again went out into the sound to reach Lee Stocking Island – where a marine research station used to be operated.  Now the buildings are abandoned and reportedly will soon be removed and replace with a resort.  Until then this anchorage is a pleasant stop on the journey south.  We found time to do some beach walking on nearby Norman’s Pond Cay with the mostly tame iguanas, gaze at the beach owned by Nicholas Cage, and climb to the highest point in the Exumas – Perry’s Peak – 123 feet above sea level – a nice morning walk.

It had been our intention to travel inside to Farmer’s Cay but the weather reports included a westerly component and after the hiccup with our weather gurus at Black Point, we opted to head to more protected spots.  On our arrival at Black Point all the forecasters were calling for very light winds from the west before the expected subtropical system clocked to the north and east.  There is no westerly protection at Black Point, and it is not a good place to be in a westerly blow since the waves from the west build as one boater said, all the way from Cuba.  We can vouch for that after a few hours of the unexpected sustained blow from the west. Although no one seemed to have got that forecast correct, thankfully it did not last. It did give us a taste of the problem westerly winds cause in this area rearranging our storage lockers and generally rocking our world. Few places along the Exuma chain offer protection from the west, so everyone runs for those sheltered spots when west winds blow with good reason!

Moving on to Staniel Cay

Moving on to Staniel Cay

Tearing ourselves away from the park after leisurely days at Cambridge Cay Mooring field – we headed a few miles south with Sea Dweller to Big Master Spot anchorage off Staniel Cay.   Staniel is a booming metropolis compared to the park with a busy airstrip, yacht club and THREE stores for topping up provisions.  After a relatively calm ride outside in the Exuma Sound to allow the fishermen/women a shot at Mahi, we turned into the cut and made a stop for H2O at the yacht club dock.  They also took our bags of trash for a small fee.  With slow water pressure we spent over an hour filling up our tanks that were down about half while Sea Dweller stood off waiting their turn.  It was fortunate that we had timed our arrival for slack tide since a wicked current runs through on a max ebb or flood.  After dropping the hook and sticking it on the first attempt among the big boys that play in this anchorage, we headed into the Isles General Store to drop off our empty propane tank. This handy service is up a shallow creek but next to a convenient dock so the tank did not have far to travel.  The store is typical Bahamas – sort of a reminder of our Saudi days – they sell everything from eggs and milk to fishing lures and boat filters with a few trinkets and doodads for spice.  We were lucky they were still open since we had to leave the tank and return the next day to pick it up.  The same kind of deal worked at the bakery – a yellow house with no sign but delicious smells.  The orders are placed in the afternoon for the next morning pick up.  The other two stores are the Blue and Pink stores – each having a slightly different variety of food and beverage items so each had to be carefully searched. Although fresh produce was limited a lot more was available than we expected given no boat came in that week because of the holiday.  With several restaurants on the cay and the well-stocked stores,  no one was starving – especially not us.

One of the better known attractions at Staniel is the Thunderball Grotto of the James Bond movie fame.  It is an easy snorkel – at slack low tide and well worth getting wet for.  Sadly we don’t have an underwater camera so you will have to come visit yourselves.  

From all these catch up posts it might also be clear that Staniel has its own tall cell tower so we finally had a nice strong signal to use our data plan.... 

Relaxing Bahamas Style

Relaxing Bahamas Style

Although the weather was too windy and cool for much water activity, we managed to keep fit walking the cays and gazing at the crystal waters around us.  The sand bars in the North Harbor were a big attraction over the Easter Week bustle when both mooring fields were almost full.  The low tide parties were entertaining and open to all.  One nearby boater added some classic sounds with his clarinet music most evenings.  Our group took turns hosting happy hours to end the day. A Tough life but someone must suffer through it!

Of course there are also those endless polishing, washing, and fix-it projects to keep the other minutes full.:)

Eventually we moved ourselves down to Cambridge where the warden offered the Admiral HOST duties for free mooring.  She dutifully visited all the boats and made sure they knew where to drop their payments as well as kept a list for the MAN so he could double check and get the correct fees. 

In between we managed to hike and snorkel most of the sites in the area.  The Sea Aquarium was the most spectacular with an amazing variety of fish and coral in a small area. The park supplies convenient mooring balls for easy access.  We also stopped at the airplane snorkel spot – a strange site to see the plane nosed into the sand but basically intact with lots of fish making themselves to home. When the winds gave us a break we got into the caves at Dundas Rock – some of us only briefly – just preparations for our next stop.

Mega Yachts

Mega Yachts

Since crossing the tongue of the ocean (between Andros and New Providence) we have seen the BIG Boy toys at almost every stop.  These are the boats from 80 to 200+ feet.  They are floating hotel boats most towing their own tenders which are nearly the size of our boat.  Some of the bigger yachts even stow their tenders in hatches that open off the back or rear side of the vessel. The draft of these babies mean they stay well out of the shallow anchorages that we populate and use those tenders to ferry folks into shore for beach time.  They also sport jet skis and kayaks for the water pleasure of the guests on board.  These sleek babies have all the toys and all the luxury of floating hotels. We only shake our heads as they fly past us doing 18 to 25 knots while we bob along at a fuel efficient 6. There is more than one way to enjoy the Exumas!

and then the three Krogens.....