Hooked on Music City
With Greg and Mary
Claire to jump start our stay in Nashville, how could we not have a fun in the Music
City? The pleasure boat docks are in the heart of the downtown with the Titians
stadium on one side of the river and the honky-tonks on Broadway and 2nd
Avenue on the other. The beautiful
pedestrian bridge – connects them.
We
sat below the bridge and next to the Star train station. The free busses also
had a stop immediately above our dock. Our
previous visits to Nashville concentrated on the pool in Centennial Park and
did not allow for touring the night spots or even museums. This trip showed us what we have been
missing. Our handy location meant we could easily visit the Country Music Hall
of Fame museum, the Farmer’s Market and the Ryman Auditorium – winter home of
the Grand Old Opry. Although we are not knowledgeable country music fans, we
spent a whole day at the museum including lunch and a tour of the famous RCA
Studio B on music row. The studio is a small rather nondescript cinder block
building that has witnessed the creation of 1000 number one hit songs. The
likes of Elvis, Willie Nelson, and a host of the faces immortalized on brass
plaques in the hall of fame recorded within these modest walls. Our guide says
she can feel the magic that permeates the air – we can’t make such claims, but
did enjoy hearing clips from Elvis sessions and famous songs recorded there. In
the museum we wandered through the history of country music from its roots in
American folk and bluegrass, combined with the Blues, Jazz and spirituals. The
displays track key figures from the early days up to the present and culminate
with the rotunda honoring those in the hall of fame. Artifacts range from a
decoupaged typewriter and costume sewing machine to Elvis’ gold and diamond
encrusted Cadillac. And, of course there was music and film to share the music.
Sadly we could not stay
for the weekend Zach Brown festival – all the docks have been booked for months
– we did catch Kenny Rogers at the Ryman for an evening of nostalgic music –
thanks to Mary Claire’s advice. The
Ryman is worth a visit even if a concert is not possible. This auditorium holds almost 2000 in two
tiers of seats that curve graciously around the stage. The seats are in church
pews since this building was originally a church. Leg room was tight, but it
appeared that every seat was a good one. The amazing Kenny limped out a little
late, but he did entertain with familiar songs and jolly patter for almost two
solid hours – we hope to be so energetic at 75+. Or maybe he gets his energy from marrying his
fifth wife that resulted in twins a few years ago!
The Bourbon Street
Blues Club in the famous Printers Alley, also entertained us with a sampling of
blues from Chicago, Detroit and the Delta. Then there was the free warm up
concert blasted from the festival stage – which gave us enough of a taste to
know that we did not want to be moored quiet so close for the real thing. We
left a few things for our next trip since Nashville has proven itself a winning
stop.
The farmer’s market in Nashville
sits at the foot of the capital building hill in the mall – a park celebrating
Tennessee. The state is mapped on the swath of concrete under the elevated
railroad and each region is further illuminated in the park opposite the market
complex. This magnificent public space is a state park. The market is also a
daily affair – closing only 3 days in the year. We found an abundance of fresh
fruits and veggies plus specialty items.
In addition, a food court with anything but ordinary options completed
the market. The restaurant stalls appeared to be family businesses rather than
chain franchises. We couldn’t get passed the pungent Indian stall but were also
tempted by the wood fired pizza and BBQ, not to mention the peach cobbler
table. The impressive world food market in the heart of the food court was a
sensory trip to other lands with ingredients from the Far and Middle East.
Every spice imaginable, plus stacks of rice, lentils and beans were piled on
shelves reaching to the ceiling in aisles just wide enough for a skinny
shopper. No cute marketing here – just an authentic Khobar or Bangkok corner
shop in Nashville, TN. And to think we almost didn’t make this side trip!
