More on MV

More on MV

Fortunately, Martha’s Vineyard, though a small island, is blessed with several protected anchorages and harbors so we did not have to brave the traffic filled roads to see the east end towns. Strange sights on our way over to Edgartown...

Yes, that is a sailboat on the deck of this big guy!

Even though the winds were calm and we could easily have anchored outside the harbor, I wanted to experience Edgartown close up. So, we booked a mooring in their extensive field in the harbor. This is a cute spot tucked between Chappaquiddick Island and Martha’s Vineyard. A couple mini-ferries crisscross the harbor almost constantly from 6 AM to midnight carrying three cars at a time plus walking passengers between the islands.  We took our bikes ashore and walked them on the ferry for the bargain price of $6 round trip. Our goal was a little exercise – provided by the hills – and a peek at the famous dike bridge which derailed a few political ambitions. The ride was about half on gravel and dirt roads which required intense concentration and allowed little actual site seeing, but we did stop at the bridge for a few photos before returning to the big island. It was easy to see why people desiring 100% privacy head for this remote corner of Martha’s Vineyard – it was the least populated and the least overrun of all the places we saw. Most homes were tucked away in the woods and away from prying eyes.

Edgartown itself was charming with colonial and 18^th century homes and a hoping shopping district.  After navigating the congestion on the dinghy dock, we biked the crazy maze of one way streets – occasionally ignoring the posted signs in our confusion, sampling local treats and viewing the harbor lighthouse.  On another day, we headed south to beaches on the Atlantic only to find them crowded with people seeking the sun on a foggy morning. We did enjoy the beautiful bike path and sea breezes. It amazed us out quickly the villages gave way to pastoral scenes and open moors. Even in our daze, we could tell that Edgartown retains a little of its earliest character, however, crowds, traffic and parking kept reminding us that this is the 21^st century – and high season. This is probably the only time I passed on a historic home tour, so another visit is in our future – hopefully in a shoulder season.

For a change of pace (sort of) we moved over to Oak Bluffs where we managed to get a mooring in the tiny and packed harbor.  They allow and require rafting of boats – up to FOUR  on one mooring ball. Added to the moored boats, LARGE ferries flew in and out frequently, so it was hard to see how boats did not collide. 

However, we saw no evidence that they did and the mooring field is convenient to one of the best neighborhoods on the vineyard – The Methodist Campground. The main street of Oak Bluffs is the usual tourist kitschy shopping destination packed with people and traffic, but step one street away and time recedes.  Cars are prohibited – contained in discrete parking areas.  The streets are narrow and restricted to walking or in a few cases biking. The homes are tiny cottages – real cottages not mansion “cottages”. Most date to the late Victorian period of the 19^th century.  

They evolved from the tent camps that were the first dwellings of this community built to provide a Methodist summer retreat.  Only a few of the more than 300 cottages are winterized but during our visit they all seemed to be decked out with summer finery.  Little painted gems accessorized with flowers and every garden ornament conceivable. Lucky for us the flower show was in full bloom – a positive side to visiting with the masses.  In the center of the circular campground community is the Tabernacle – an elaborate iron structure  130 across and 100 feet high seating over 3000 – like the entire community, it is on the national historic register. 

Even the historic carousel with the brass ring could not compete… although we stopped to check it out in its fancy red barn.

grabbing the ring

Our final Vineyard stop was a marked contrast to the others – slightly less traffic, fewer people, and authentic rustic buildings. We anchored off Menemsha Harbor. Maybe it was late in the day but the beach was only sprinkled with a few people, not packed as we had seen at Katama Beach south of Edgartown.  Few cars headed our way – but then the famous sunset was not happening due to the overcast sky.  We walked the village and even photographed the red shack made famous by the movie Jaws.  We did pick up dinner to go from the equally renowned Larsens fish market, but there were real fishing boats and actual fishermen not exclusively working the tourist trade in this active harbor. On Menemsha we almost thought we were back on Cuttyhunk – just across the sound to the north.

bike ferry to cross Menemsha Inlet

warning of the current in the inlet!