Swan’s Island

On the advice of fellow boaters, we wandered next into Burnt Coat Harbor on Swan’s Island.  This stop had been marked on our charts several years ago by fellow Krogen owners, Karen and Jerry, who we first met in Marathon, FL.  However, since so much time had passed, we were not sure where they were spending this summer.  Walking along the main road after our lobster roll lunch at Tim’s Market Take Out, our phone rang.  It was Karen – who had spotted our boat off her porch and was wondering where we were.  We were, in fact, just about in front of her house. She and Jerry kindly gave us a tour of the historic home that they restored after we caught on up on a couple years’ worth of travels. It is always extra special to get a “locals” perspective and even better when they are also boaters.  Karen and Jerry were very generous with their suggestions and information about island life. In the short years that they have had a home on Swan’s Island they have become acquainted with the culture and had insights about both summer residents and full-timers. We envy those who summer up here and admire the tough, resilient, and hardworking locals.  Swan’s Island is not the typical tourist stop as there are no restaurants or big hotels.  It is a “dry” island with no alcohol served in public places which might be part of the reason it is uniquely old-style Maine. In addition, all the land within 250 feet of the shoreline in the harbor must be used for commercial fishing.  This has prevented the proliferation of mansions along the scenic shores and retained the flavor of a real “authentic” working harbor.  We also chatted with a lobsterman – 8^th generation he told us – who answered some of our burning questions about the job.  For example, how do they know how much rope to put out – we see pots in everything from 20 foot depths to 200+. He also told us he does not go out to pull traps everyday – although he works more than 600 pots. The whole time he educated us we watched him rig new traps with rope and buoys – ever missing a knot.  Steve said I could learn a knot or two if I watched long enough!  Thanks to Karen and Jerry’s advice we returned for the Sweet Chariot Music Festival in August. The musicians not only produce an eclectic show in the evening but also tour the harbor singing their hearts out on a pirate ship. Karen and Jerry also kindly gave us a road tour of the island so we could see the spots not easily reached by boat bound visitors. The charms that have made this island retreat famous and popular with rusticators from “away” were easy to behold.

A view from the harbor of Karen and Jerry's house