Where did that month go?

Where did that month go?

Days slips away on Bahama Time.  We have nearly a month in the islands with hardly any “free time” for updating the blog…..

The last several days have been spent waiting out weather on the east side of Elizabeth Harbor off George Town in the Exumas. This break has finally offered a catch up opportunity:

Before reaching this mega polis where cars out number bikes and fender benders abound, we spent a few days in the quiet back water of Black Point Settlement.  Black Point is a true Bahamian town – it is the home base for workers from the Land and Sea Park to resorts south.  The fast boats leave at the first light ferrying the workers to their jobs.  We had no such schedule although their departing wakes gently rocked our boat.  We did get loads of laundry done in Ida’s Rockside Laundry.  Steve also got an Ida special haircut and some engine additive in this full service shop.  The town also has several restaurants and mini grocery stores.  On shore exercise included walks to the sound beaches and bluffs as well as the “must  see” Garden of Eden passing the local All-Ages school, clinic, police station and the reliable BeTelCo office (Bahama Telephone Company).  People living here are friendly – it seemed like everyone from the tiniest child in emerald green school uniform to the hip hop clad dock workers and traditionally garbed elders greeted us with cheerfully “hellos” or “good day!” The matriarch in the grocery store counseled local children as well as cruisers.  Overall Black Point is a more laid-back hangout which attacks much smaller boats as the shallow anchorage is not suitable for those fancy mega yachts. (It is also not protected from the west as we can verify.) The gazebo at the laundry is an attractive gathering point for relaxing and exchanging info and tips with other cruisers.

Our stay was extended to wait for the supply boat – this boat was much anticipated – the shop shelves were empty and the restaurants had limited offerings. Because of the Easter holiday, it had been over two weeks since the last boat’s arrival. Along with most of the town we eagerly watched for the ship and dinked in to join the crowd.  Gulf carts and a few pickup trucks lined the dock to deliver the much needed fresh food as well as a few special treats like the Jet Ski we saw perched on the upper deck. (Those palm trees on the back did not get off loaded – must have been bound for the next stop.) The loaded ship reminded us of the haji trucks we had seen in the Middle East – with goods precariously stacked at odd angles. The scene on the dock was a major social event as locals came to claim their shipments but also a hive of heavy lifting as a gang of men (and a few gals) manually hauled goods up the dock to load waiting transport. They then sped off through town to drop boxes at the designated destination. The ballet was interrupted by a few passing rain showers. Boxes and pallets were tarped and work halted to keep everyone safe on the slippery docks and decks.  Needless to say, we did not get any fresh produce that afternoon – after the showers finally eased up we headed back to the boat and made an early morning run to the shop the next day.

This gaily painted community is among our favorites, and it was hard to finally say farewell. 

Our next stop was Rudder Cay – and a quick visit to the piano – yes a piano or its remains – graces the sand a few meters off the island.  This was a remote and secluded spot which we shared with one other boat a way off.  In the far distance we could see a 100+ foot sailboat but otherwise we had the area to ourselves.  The dramatic cliff caves were even more impressive than the piano – and we have no idea how it came to be in the water.

From Rudder we again went out into the sound to reach Lee Stocking Island – where a marine research station used to be operated.  Now the buildings are abandoned and reportedly will soon be removed and replace with a resort.  Until then this anchorage is a pleasant stop on the journey south.  We found time to do some beach walking on nearby Norman’s Pond Cay with the mostly tame iguanas, gaze at the beach owned by Nicholas Cage, and climb to the highest point in the Exumas – Perry’s Peak – 123 feet above sea level – a nice morning walk.

It had been our intention to travel inside to Farmer’s Cay but the weather reports included a westerly component and after the hiccup with our weather gurus at Black Point, we opted to head to more protected spots.  On our arrival at Black Point all the forecasters were calling for very light winds from the west before the expected subtropical system clocked to the north and east.  There is no westerly protection at Black Point, and it is not a good place to be in a westerly blow since the waves from the west build as one boater said, all the way from Cuba.  We can vouch for that after a few hours of the unexpected sustained blow from the west. Although no one seemed to have got that forecast correct, thankfully it did not last. It did give us a taste of the problem westerly winds cause in this area rearranging our storage lockers and generally rocking our world. Few places along the Exuma chain offer protection from the west, so everyone runs for those sheltered spots when west winds blow with good reason!