Back in time to Shelburne, NS

Back in time to Shelburne, NS

While Lunenburg was largely a Victorian town, Shelburne, our next stop, is set in the late 1700s – 1783 to be precise – since that is when the Loyalists arrived from the USA after the defeat of the British in our Revolutionary War. Unlike Lunenburg that was settled by Foreign Protestants (i.e. Germans and Swiss) and reached its heyday in the late 19^th Century, Shelburne’s historic core seems to have never left the 18^th Century. Partly this is due to the magic of Hollywood.  Shelburne could be accurately called "the town that Hollywood built".  The movie version of the Scarlet Letter was set here and some of the town was spruced up, modified, and enhanced for that purpose. For example the Cox warehouse acquired a cupola/ steeple that is not period correct for the rest of the town. The market building was added and the barrel factory was reconstructed. However, the stark simplicity of many buildings here and the largely deserted streets lend the village a peaceful air – or is it a deserted sound stage?  With few tourists or even locals and only the occasional car, it really is easy to imagine this town as it was in the post-Revolutionary era. (In fact , we learned that Shelburne's boom period was a very short one – ending before the 19^th Century began. Thankfully most of that early period has survived - maybe thanks in part to Hollywood!)

Before describing our visit to the museums and shops of Shelburne, the night at Carter’s Beach deserves a mention – this quiet spot is excellent in all but Northeast winds – and as luck would have it those very winds kicked up about 1 AM sending ocean swells into our lives until we pulled the anchor at 8 AM – not much sleep was had in the interim.  From the forecast – 15 to 20 building to 30 knots and seas 1-2 building to 2 to 3 meters – we searched out places to hide that might offer better protection.  However, when we poked out noses out and rounded the Port Mouton Island, we decided the swell was in our favor and we made a run for Shelburne.  It was indeed a pleasant surprise to find it less rolly than our night and we quickly arrived in the very sheltered harbor of Shelburne – reported to be the third largest natural harbor in North America.

Despite the sleepy feel to the town, it is an easy place to rest or wait for a good weather window to cross the Bay of Fundy.  We are attached to a mooring off the yacht club with a panoramic view of the waterfront and historic town. The museum complex – three in one – is a short walk from the dinghy dock.  The Dory Museum visit included a video on the Sidney, the master dory builder, who worked in the building for 75+ years – from 1914 until his death. He trained his sons and they in turn trained the current master builder who still is building dories in this building.  The exhibits included a working dory from the days of the schooners with all the typical gear on board.  Again the small size for the big job and vulnerable exposure to the mighty Atlantic were impressive. We also learned that the dories could be stacked – looking at the limited space on the schooner decks we were wondering how they managed to get more than a dozen dories on board.

In the county museum building we saw an old fire pumper – built in 1740. Amazing that it survived since the twin was reportedly chopped up for firewood. Also, the volunteer firemen had to pay to be on the force as well as provide their own uniforms. Dedicated!

The final museum building houses the recreated store run by the Ross brothers and later the home of the Thompson family.  The store had many interesting artifacts of the time – including a massive barrel of port wine and a hog of tobacco.

One of the beautifully manicured buildings in the historic district is home to a delicious treat. The Charlotte Lane advertises sublime food and lives up to its billing.  The food was sublime and the portions generous.  The best, however, was the arrival of Alizann – in the late afternoon – just in time to join us for the feast. What could be better than a special meal shared with friends – catching up on their adventures in Newfoundland and the North! Quiet Shelburne is still a special place.