Erie Canal - life in the slow lane

Erie Canal – life in the slow lane

From Fonda we have travelled almost 80 miles and ten locks in five days – at this torrid pace we may never get to the Great Lakes.  While the locks finally opened, the debris in the canal/Mohawk River, was substantial. We had to pay close attention to avoid trees floating down and inch our way out of locks between the rafts of limbs.

 

The weather even warmed up enough to enjoy air conditioning for a couple of days while we explored Canajoharie, Little Falls and Ilion where were disappointed to learn that the Remington Arms factory museum was closed.

 

Our slow pace allowed longtime friends from our Aramco days to join us for the weekend. Arch and Susan Elving recently relocated to Pennsylvania a mere 3 and a half hours from the Little Falls on the Erie Canal. Steve and Arch met when they were processing to go to Aramco some 35 years ago. Many camping trips, travels and adventures later, they are still among our best friends. We are especially grateful to have Arch’s expertise with woodworking since he is helping Steve fit the new refrigerator into the boat. (Did I mention earlier that our slow pace the last couple of weeks has partly been due to the logistics of getting a new refrigerator shipped somewhere along the canal where we can meet it and then install it? Our old frig has been having a hard time – especially on HOT days – keeping up with the chill. Since we are as close as it is possible to be to the source we decided to just do the deed. As it turns out the frig we need was on a ship from Italy due any day, thus the snail pace to time our arrival with the frig) Of course the new frig is slightly smaller, has a different design and requires new wiring.  Having a compatible buddy like Arch come help will probably save our marriage. Susan and I will have no trouble filling any spare time with sightseeing (shopping) since she is a world class shopper. Seriously, it has been wonderful to see them and enjoy all their generous help with this unplanned project.

 

As we wait for the frig to be delivered to the Elving’s, we have been stopping at the historic sites along the Erie Canal. One stop included Rome, NY with Fort Stanwix a National Park Historic Monument.  In fact, it was the first historic site to be managed by the National Park Service. It was designated an historic site during the great depression but the reconstructed fort that we visited was not built until the mid-1970s when the area was redeveloped. The city of Rome had built over the early 1750ish fort and by the late 1960s the area was covered with buildings from the late 1800s and early 20^th century. The park service was persuaded by aggressive politicking to uncover the site and rebuild the fort.  The plans were found in the British war library and a faithful reconstruction was completed. So, why spend the money and energy to remember this fort seemingly in the middle of nowhere?  This location is strategic because it is the land bridge between the waterway out to the Atlantic and the inland route through the Great Lakes. These few miles connect the best route for early settlers to move good in and out of this territory. Therefore, both the British and the French made early moves to control the area and win over the support of the local Indians who also historically traded along this route. It is no surprise that the French and Indian wars prompted the British construction of this fort in 1758 when the earlier smaller forts along the land route were overrun by the French. Then later during the Revolutionary War this became a pivotal battle ground leading up to the American victory at Saratoga which ultimately persuaded the French to join our side as well as the Dutch and Spanish. Without the help of these allies, we may never have become an independent nation. This little known site had a profound role in shaping the outcome of the Revolutionary War and warrants the effort which has been made to remember and recreate that era. The visitor’s center is state of the art with motion sensor activated audio visual presentations depicting the lives of four characters from this story. These individuals bring to life and represent the families, the soldiers, the traders and the Indians caught up in the struggle to control this area as well as the conflicts between families as each chose sides between the rebels and the loyalists. The history of this place and the impact on the daily lives of those involved is dramatically portrayed in artifacts, film clips, and other visuals. The fort experience also includes costumed actors giving the characters physical dimension for visitors.  School groups participated in simulated military drill exercises as well as more traditional tours.  Displays included some traditional rooms to view and others which were open to hands on exploration like the store and living quarters where visitors could get personal experience with the way of life and even try on clothing.  The buildings were faithfully reconstructed using hand hewn logs and hand forged iron work although the theater was air conditioned and the restrooms were remarkably modern!

 

 

All of this history sits less than a half mile from the Erie Canal in the heart of Rome which also boasts an Italian restaurant run by the same family since 1905 still serving authentic cuisine in a dining room bedecked with white table clothes. The Italian influence must have been the source of the town’s name since we also discovered a wonderful Italian deli in another period building stocking ingredients from tomato sauces, various kinds of olives and dried beans,  to three types of mozzarella cheese, and, of course, pasta, fresh, frozen, dried….. It was hard to limit ourselves to what we could carry back to the boat.

 

 

These last few days we have also been entertained by new friends and meeting folks again as we all hopped down the canal. One warm evening we were relaxing on board The Darrf 5 learning about the sailing adventures of Brenda and Hugh from Scotland who have been sailing steel hulled Scotia around the world a variety of ways. They generously gave us advice on visiting the Bahamas as did Gerry and Joan a few days later – even though they were waiting for Tow Boat US to arrive and assist them to move their slightly disabled boat up the canal to a yard for repairs. It is tricky enough navigating locks when everything is working, but especially dodgy without reverse! Again, while there have been many interesting things to see in these small towns, it is still the camaraderie of fellow travelers and the people we meet that are proving “priceless”.