Stopping to enjoy Beaufort, SC in
spite of the rain and BIG CHILL!
Due to our early, early start from
our anchorage on Bryan Creek (necessitated by the close proximity of the marsh
to our aft end and aided by a high tide) :) we arrived in lovely Beaufort, SC about lunch time. Dropping the anchors
in front of the historic town center we hopped in the dink for a damp ride into
Paninis for Sunday brunch. I forgot to
mention that it was raining with thunderstorms and lightening until just before
we pulled into Beaufort where it turned to a drizzle. While the rain finally
gave up, the temps were way below normal in the 50s with a 20+ knot breeze.
Bundling up, we walked the streets of the historic district. The numerous pre-civil war buildings here
were preserved because the town fell to the Union early in the conflict with
nary a shot fired although, ironically, this is where the articles of
succession were drafted. Also, we learned on our carriage ride tour, this was
not a commercial port but more of a party town.
This is where the wealthy had summer homes on the river to capture those
breezes when elsewhere in the south it was hot and humid. The wealth here over
the years is clear even from the outside as many large (20-40 room) mansion
style summer homes are concentrated along the river. I insert only a few of the photos we took to
give you a small TASTE of Beaufort charm:
This period feel also accounts for
the many films made here such as The Big
Chill and, my favorite, Forrest Gump.
We also sampled the chocolates from The
Chocolate Tree, the store featured in that movie.
Not surprisingly, all the Pat Conroy
connections are touted since he spent some of his growing up years here and set
several of his novels in this area.
Previously we had passed by Daufuskie Island where his book The Water is Wide (the story of his
year as a teacher in a two room school for black children) is set, and on the tour we passed his boyhood home. Several movies
based on his books were also at least partially filmed here in Beaufort. When
the sun finally came out we could see why this attractive town has become a
popular stop for tourists and the American Cruise Line Southeastern Intracoastal
Waterway Cruise (www.americancruiselines.com/Find-a-cruise/southeast-us ).
We, (Steve, Ricky and Drew Little, and me) spent another day roaming
about this corner of SC.
The boys went to the Parris Island Marine Base museum
while I perused the shops and the Verdier House museum. After seeing the
outside of the plantation architecture, it was interesting to see the inside
and feel the high ceilings, tall windows, and stout walls. This house was built in 1804 and embellish on
the outside with elaborate moldings as many others in town were as well. The owners wanted everyone to see their
wealth even before they entered. The
public rooms were also heavy with crown moldings, doorway pediments and frieze
encrusted mantels. One room even still displayed the original wall papers found
under plasterboard during a recent renovation. The house is also used to
display art exhibits, and I enjoyed the current showing of the silhouettes by
Carew Rice – his work included the small typical heads cut from black paper,
but more amazing were the large landscapes - poster size scenes of the area cut from one
piece of paper. The detail was both inspiring and amusing. Studying a larger
work revealed animals hidden among the trees and swamps. Even his smaller works
displayed his sense of humor with the whimsical pictures of everyday life. I
was not allowed to photography his work, but check the link from Google if you
are interested. The series on Charleston gates must have required the patience
of a saint and the steady hands of a surgeon.
The boys supply some photos of the marines on parade – lots
of hoorahs have been flying around here since they returned.
friends from Saudi will get the reason for this one!
Ricky and Drew with Erben Renewal in the background - from the shores at our mooring on South Edisto River
After windy nights on the hook.....
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