Exumas Land and Sea Park

Exumas Land and Sea Park

The fair weather finally failed about the time we reached Shroud Cay at the northern end of the Exumas Land and Sea Park.  This is a protected stretch of the Exumas chain with moorings to preserve the corals. The area has been protected since the last 1950s thanks to the energy and foresight of early conservationists.

As we entered the mooring field at Shroud we spotted two fellow Krogenites – Lisa and Bill and Jeff and Ellen.  Bill led our three dinks through the creek to the sound side of the island.  

This is a trip famous for the mangroves and crystal waters.  The view from the beach at the Atlantic end is spectacular Bahamas postcard stuff. The view from Deep creek campsite up the hill is even better and worth the short walk.  We also enjoyed the current/swim through the opening.  It was brisk on the incoming tide but we were promised even more fun if we returned for the outgoing ride. The trick here is to cross the creek mid to high tide or spend some time pulling the dink over the sand bars.  With Bill and Lisa’s help we timed it perfectly so we enjoyed only relaxation and no sweat. On our return the winds had stiffened even more and we all spent a VERY rolly evening and nite – rearranging our stores to avoided breakage and minimize rattling.  Stowing the dinks was also an adventure – fortunately Sea Dweller chose NOT to bring theirs up.

Our morning departure was delayed 3+ hours.  After listening to the Park Headquarters morning broadcast for reservations in the North Harbor at Warderick Wells, we were all set to head for Emerald Rock when our engine failed to start.  Thankfully the men gathered, since Sea Dweller had not stowed their dink, and after sweaty hours in the engine room purged our system of the water that had come in through the exhaust.  Good mechanical skills and every tool known to boaters saved the day not to mention the informal Krogen motto – never leave a Krogen behind.  The helpfulness of fellow boaters is not to be underestimated or under appreciated.  While the guys were working, we heard another boat with engine trouble call for spare parts and several answers offered up assistance.  Although it is rare that we are on the receiving end, it is sure nice to have a knowledgable helping hand when major work is needed. And we hope to be paying it forward soon to return the kindnesses extended to us.

Late but moving, we all headed toward Warderick Wells. While we were waiting/repairing a couple moorings had opened up so our buddies headed into North Harbor for a protected night while we found a ball in Emerald Rock. (where we had to swim to rescue the boat hook) 

 Although we were less protected, the winds abated and our boat rolled much less than it had previously at Shroud.  The cats never complained much and Frank, our bell weather of sea conditions, did not miss a nap. Thanks to our buddies on Changing Course we were assigned the only ball in the harbor that came open the next morning and so now we also sit in the calm waters off the Exuma Park Headquarters.  A few days waiting out the winds and enjoying the hikes and hopefully snorkels here will set us up for at least one more stop in the park.

Before we reached Shroud we did make a run over to Leaf and Allen Cays to see the resident iguanas -

Erben Renewal back underway

Erben Renewal back underway

After four months hanging around Ortega Landing – minus a few shore trips, we have headed south along the Atlantic ICW for a crossing to Bimini from Cape Florida in Biscayne Bay.  Our trek south was uneventful – mostly using familiar anchorages.  The much delayed Space X launch provided entertainment on our stopover in Titusville – directly opposite the Kennedy Space Center.  The endless bridges below St Lucie Inlet were a pain with their schedules designed to test our slow speed as was the traffic from the all too frequent inconsiderate South Florida boaters who trashed our kitchen with their wakes.  Those inconsiderate few are so memorable we sometimes forget to mention all those who are careful to slow down and share the channel graciously or let others pass through bridges first to help them make the next opening.

In a fast 10 days we were on the hook behind Florida International University.  The Haulover Marina let us use their dinghy dock so the Admiral could make a quick trip to California for her big sister’s wedding.  This long awaited event was as unique as the happy couple and a great chance to wish them well and see siblings as well as cousins.   It was also nice to meet the groom’s family who traveled from Oregon for the festivities. A once in a lifetime celebration not to be missed!

Back on board after a marathon shopping trip to Publix – our favorite grocery store, we exited the last bridges for a quiet night off No Name harbor ready to jump over to Bimini with first light.  The waters were calm for the crossing and we entered the harbor at Bimini Sands to clear customs.  (Our attempts to anchor in the thin sand and rock were unsuccessful and luckily the resort had space for us.)  It was an easy entry with Steve filling a few trees worth of forms and sharing a taxi to the airport with three other cruiser captains.  The Admirals dutifully waited with cold beverages to celebrate our official clearing through customs – the lowering of the yellow quarantine flag and raising the Bahamas pennant.

The next morning we crossed the banks on another calm day and spent a night partway to break up the 130 mile trip into West Bay on New Providence Island – home to Nassau.  With the weather gods still in our favor we only stopped for the night and headed on across the banks to Highbourne Cay in the Exumas – our cruising grounds for this spring.

Time to relax and get on Bahamas time - just us and few mega yachts in this scenic stop.  Hope to have good WIFI to keep this more current and add the photos.